View Full Version : Knives
DaRkWoLf
07-07-2005, 06:15 AM
Who here uses or has a stash of em? What do you think about the knives you have? When you shop for a knife, what are your usual needs and what are you looking for in a "good knife."
Ive heard and shopped around in the big name brands, but Im kind of reluctant to get my dream knife/knives. Im not seeing what a MOD or Mercwerks (sp?) can do thats worth an extra 200-250$ Yes theyre slightly more streamligned and prettyful; in all honestly "looking tactical" dosent mean jack, in fact its usually (at least it seems) an indicator of someting designed to make civis pay extra for it. Im more than willing to bet they get the job done, very well to say the least, but what says they can do something a Ka-Bar that costs 85$ cant? Im sure there are advantages to the MODs and Mercwerks, they do have many little, almost novelty features that can come in handy.
If I wanted to I could get the upper class ones, but Ive more or less settled on the following list. Im also checking local laws to see whats allowed for use (supposing I was old enough to legally carry one) and what isnt. List:
Master Knives Ch16BK Butterfly with Black Marbleized Handle Inserts $20
United Cutlery 144 Throwing Knife Tripple Set $10
Black KA-BAR Tanto $82
I also have a little skeletonized Frost Cutlery knife and a friends giving me the hook up on a smith and wesson folder.
What do you all think/reccomend?
DW, what are you going to use your knives for? That makes your question easier to answer. I have a bunch of knives but they all serve a different purpose. There are hunting knives for skinning and butchering game, general purpose knives, ones for cutting up my food and those that serve a self defense role though I sure don't want to get into a knife fight.
Your choices, "Master Knives Ch16BK Butterfly with Black Marbleized Handle Inserts $20, United Cutlery 144 Throwing Knife Tripple Set $10, Black KA-BAR Tanto $82" seem to indicate pretty much use for fighting. It would be mighty hard to skin a deer with that butterfly knife. The KaBar is a pretty good general purpose knife. I can't see much use for the throwing knives except for playing around. Someone wise once told me that "you don't throw your knife away."
My knives range from a Victorinox SAK to Buck hunting knives to the Buck 110 to the Cold Steel SRK with maybe a dozen others that I have bought or have been given. Yep, you could say that I'm sharp on knives. :)
RIKA
DaRkWoLf
07-07-2005, 07:33 AM
Nice knives Rika. Very sharp looking and classy. That SRK looks pretty tough.
The KA-BAR would pretty much be the do-all. Rugged and Proven, and serves various utility roles by itself. That tanto design does incorperate a partial seration btw. You guessed the throwers right, I really just plan to throw em in my other houses garage, if they show extreme promise, that I doubt, maby justmabye id consider adding emto an extended extended kit list; yet that is extremely doubted and impractical. The butterfly I like, Ive been toying with my friends lately, I can care less for the techniques and moves and "dance" that is associated with it, they supply a 4 inch blade concealably quickly and quietly, just use a quick quiet flop and its employed. The S&W knife is flat out concealable, horizontally on a belt and it is conveinent and unnoticeable with anything I wear.
Im not really for a knife fight myself. Im really just getting an affinity for them in addition to some uses. The utility uses cant be denied and pointy objects do come in handy.
I tend to look for decent quality at a great price. Like Rika, I've got them all over the place, ranging across brand names and blade styles. Since I like knives so much, I also tend to drool over the pricey ones, but tend to stick with something that I'm not going to cry over when it gets scratched or broken. FWIW, I've been carrying a standard Ka-Bar for the last 15 years all over the world and haven't found much that it can't do as a general purpose big knife (not to be confused with my general purpose small knife, or multitools, or GP medium knives). Throwing knives are pretty fun, as are tomahawks, as long as you think of it as 'advanced darts', and not a real useful tactic.
BigEd63
07-07-2005, 12:43 PM
All depends on what the knife will be used for but I tend to go with upper end production knives but not what I'd call the custom or semi-custom ones.
Right now if I was wanting a medium to large fixed blade knife I'd go either Becker or Ka-Bar.
I used to like Gerber but right now it seems they dropped nearly all of my favorites.
For folding kinves I like liner locks for actual pocket carry and the Buck 110 and similar designs for a folder on my belt.
For muti-tool type ones I like the Victorinox SAK's and Leathermans.
krept
07-07-2005, 01:26 PM
The utility uses cant be denied and pointy objects do come in handy.
exactly. I am within 5 feet of my knife almost 100% of the time. Can't say the same thing about a firearm.
Old adage applies - you get what you pay for. I decided that I might have to rely on my knife to save my life, so... like good safety equipment/tools, I'm not going to skimp. Nobody gives me money and I live paycheck to paycheck but I scraped enough to drop $350 on a Strider and I've never regretted it once. I beat the **** out of the knife using it for un-knifelike jobs and it sings. It's literally a folding fixed blade, CA legal, etc. Awesome... it's my favorite tool by a LONG shot.
About your choices...
Skip the butterfly. I've been around balisongs since I was 12 or so in California, brought it over from Mexico. They're fun, but yeah even with quick ass manipulation they are still slooooow. The quality on that is crap and I wouldn't even spit at it... just my opinion. I'd recommend a Benchmade, I've got one, it kicks ass but I could literally give it away and care less about it... it's just a toy, really.
Skip the throwing knives. http://www.knivesplus.com/uc-throwing-knife-uc-144.html jeez. More toys.
... of course, if you are looking around just to play games, etc, I GUESS they would be fun beaters, but... I'd still just rather go quality. Personally, I'm never going to buy stuff like the bali or throwing knives again, just too much garbage to accumulate.
KA-Bar. Now we're getting somewhere. Decent quality for the price. The problem is... how often are you going to carry a fixed blade?? The size is going to limit it's usefulness and, well... I'd get a folder first and foremost. Hell, you should have one on your pocket NOW.
Personally, if I were you, I'd look long and hard at an Emerson Commander. Very useful blade shape, pretty damn tough, quality steel and the "wave" opening mechanism just can't be beat in terms of speed of deployment.
Im not really for a knife fight myself. Whoever is in for a knife fight is a moron. In fact, it's not really a knife fight, it's a knife killing because that's what will probably happen when two blades are involved, which is super rare. I'm not one for a gunfight either, but that isn't going to stop me from getting something I can hit fast and accurately with.
Man, please, please get yourself a GOOD BLADE. A quality one. I can't tell you how many garbage blades I've had because they were meaningless wastes of time. Remember, I like knives so much that I've made knifemaking a hobby and I'm back in the garage at the grinder. The knives you are talking about are worse than a Pakastani 1911 knockoff and I sure as hell know you wouldn't buy one of those even though you didn't get your Kimber with the intention of doing mercenary work.
A quality knife is probably the most useful, readily available tool you can have. In fact, I think we had a good discussion here about being stuck in the woods with either a good knife or a good handgun with only one magazine. I'd opt for the knife each time.
If you want to look for good blades, I'd look to:
Spyderco. Good bang for the buck. Little flimsy, but inexpensive relative to the others.
Benchmade. Quality pieces. I never really warmed up to them for some reason but I know they are quality.
Microtech. Kick ass automatics! Made in FL if I recall too... Autos are toys like the bali and throwing knives but man... a double action out the front like the Scarab... ahhh... good stuff. Not so great on utility, however.
Emerson. Commander is a classic, proven design. The wave has to be seen to be believed. Tough blades, just wish the liner was a little thicker.
Strider. You know how I feel about them and they speak for themselves.
Absolutely do NOT go with the garbage knives, please. BIG waste of time and money, even if they are cheap. I could go on and on lol... I'd say start from square one and keep looking bro.
BTW... a good multi tool would be a great start too.
DaRkWoLf
07-07-2005, 06:16 PM
Krept,
Thanks for your input. Glad your still with us (havent heard from you on here in a while).
Ill look into that stuff right now.
Multitool wise im more than content with my Leatherman Wave.
krept
07-07-2005, 06:54 PM
Didn't know you had a Wave. Great start, my favorite multitool. My son has been keeping me biiiizzzzeeee!
If I had the money available, it would be between the Emerson and Strider. Emerson because the recurve w/serrations has great utility and it's smoking fast to deploy. Strider because they are no-bs. Either way, I'd go as large a folder as you can legally carry (as long as it fits your hand). Fixed blades are obviously superior, but there are more legal hassles associated with them and they are too easy to leave behind because they are a PITA to carry unless you are really getting equipped (like camping, hiking, etc.).
Again, all the knives mentioned will do 95% of what you need them to do. Those listed are just my preference, there are a LOT of options available.
DaRkWoLf
07-07-2005, 07:10 PM
Okay, looked into your suggestions krept.
You probly think im crazy and foolhardy, but I love the balisongs. I acknowledge your experience, guess Ill have to learn this lesson the hard way :( ; your probly right, but mabye just mabye they will work for my purposes. Im debating on the benchmade or the spyderco. The benchmade with the serated edge looks like it could potentially have some utility use, as of yet im not quite "feeling" the spyderfly.
Ive added a Spyderco Meadowlark BY04 to my list. As well as an Emerson Commander BTS, although I would probly buy it after (same week or two) the butterfly. Ill probly buy the Ka-Bar tanto and the meadowlark soon after that.
I think Tuna summed up my want of the throwers best with advanced darts. Have no practical use, but they are recreational at least.
I still want that mercworx shiva. That price tag is a little steep for a single blade, and im not really planing on concealing the thing (although it is possible in some standard and some sub-standard configurations with many of the things I wear). One day, oh someday :bird:
I really can't tell a lot of difference between the Shiva @ $375 and the LG Camillus Boot knife that I bought on Ebay for $25. Both are made of excellent steel and will do the job. For the cash difference I can buy another gun and ammo or put the money in the bank.
RIKA
DaRkWoLf
07-07-2005, 07:41 PM
I like the looks of that Camillus Large Boot Knife. $45, not bad at all. Added that one to the shopping list :)
One day that list will shrink and not grow...
BigEd63
07-07-2005, 08:46 PM
DW- Have you looked into any blades made of stainless or D2 for rust resistance considering your AO?
KaBar makes a traditional pattern blade w/serrations in D2 dunno if they do the tanto one in it however.
krept
07-08-2005, 12:34 AM
D2 is semi stainless because of the slightly lower chromium content but on my bench it corrodes almost as fast as carbon steels (1084 and 5160). OTOH, it holds one of the meanest edges around.
S30V steel is considered probably the best of the stainless steels, but I think there is another up and coming one that might beat it in toughness AND wear resistance. It'll still rust with a rough finish like beadblasted.
Man, if you have a boat and stuff like that seriously consider a Strider. Really. Check out tadgear.com or plazacutlery.com and see what they got. I know that the former offers a no-bs money back guarantee if you don't like your blade. Even if they didn't or you decided to use the knife for a while, resale value on them is really high... people actually prefer to buy them this way so they can beat the **** out of them and not really regret it.
Strider is the one basically responsible for the Americanized Tanto design. If you look at traditional tantos, they are not very geometric. For a full (but not XLG) Tanto, check out the BT-SS:
http://plazacutlery.com/Strider/Strider0830105.htm
Midsized - EBLT-SS http://plazacutlery.com/Strider/Strider0830415EBTLSS.htm
Kick ass little backup - DB http://plazacutlery.com/Strider/Strider0830075D.htm
Large tanto folder - GB http://plazacutlery.com/Strider/Strider0830003Front.htm (this is the one I carry but with coyote brown scales)
Medium tanto folder - SnG - http://plazacutlery.com/Strider/Strider0830006FRONT.htm
Sorry... don't mean to spam the thread but I dig their blades and they got me into knifemaking. :D
ANYWAY... don't get me wrong. Balisongs are flashy and cool and fun as hell to play with, but not too practical. Kinda like fountain pens... and I just got one of those. For serious use, I'd stick to liner/frame locks or fixed blades. Did you read RIKA's thread about familiarization with her 1911s? Same thing applies to knives.
cheers
Razorback
07-08-2005, 07:18 AM
I like to have several blades.
As a general-purpose camp knife, the Ka-Bar (actually the Ontario copies I like better as they have a lanyard hole) is hard to beat. It's inexpensive, and has a thick, rather soft blade, that stand up to camp chores, including prying well. It doesn't hold an edge super well, but I keep mine with a convex edge anyway. Like I said, general purpose.
The next is a slicer. The 4" drop point is the best in my mind for the slicer. I want it made of D2 or D3, because it's hard as glass, and holds a razor edge for a long, long time. This is, like I said a slicer, it's for dressing game. It doesn't get used to pound tent stakes (or even whittle them), pry on anything, open cans, etc, so the increases brittleness is not a factor. A good, sharp filet knife is also indicated.
Lastly, no hunter's blade kit is complete without a Buck 110 folder and a swiss army knife or some other kind of multi tool.
John in AR
07-08-2005, 01:54 PM
Quality is paramount, imo, but I’m not “up” on steel types enough to judge the ‘very good’ vs. the ‘VERY good’; i.e., comparing Strider vs. Buck vs. Cold Steel, etc.
I have a few “good” sheath knives, but nothing exotic. Buck 119 is imo a very good knife and I’ve used mine a fair amount, but I’m not enamored with the phenolic handle, especially when wet.
Cold Steel Tanto; the old one from the 1980’s. Thing’s like a good farm truck; it may not be exotic, but it just won’t stop working. The laminated San Mai steel may be even better; never tried one. (Or know if they even still make it...?)
Nighthawk (don’t remember if it’s Buck or Gerber for some reason), is a very good knife, although it’s got a more pointed blade than I prefer. One upside is that it fits the same sheaths as my old Cold Steel Tanto.
Spec Plus (don’t know if they’re connected with Ontario..?). It’s also pretty good, but imo not up there with the Bucks & such.
The one I use most is a 4 or 5-inch Gerber “Freeman Skinner” with gut-hook. I picked up one when I happened on them on clearance, and liked it so well I went back & bought two more; one guthook & one plain.
Main problem I have with sheath knives is that I’m left handed, and most factory sheaths hold the knife backwards for left-handers.
Folders; my absolute favorite is the Buck 110. It’s not sexy or lightning-fast to open, but it’s sharp as a razor and tough as nails.
I also have a Buck linerlock folder I picked up at a supply house, don’t recall the model name. It’s faster to open with thumbhole and metal belt/pocket clip, but it’s not nearly in the same league strength-wise as the 110 is.
Another one I can’t recall the number of, a Buck (180?) folder with locking drop-point blade and locking bonesaw/guthook blade. It’s “good” but not up there with the 110, and if using a folder for dressing an animal, be sure to clean it good right when you’re done. Otherwise, it gets funky & gunky in there. (Trust me on this)
Also the inevitable hodgepodge of knives picked up over the years. A B&D Executive Edge that fits in a shirt pocket like a pen and is surprisingly strong and well made, an old Pacific Cutlery (pre-Benchmade) Bali-song, the big one with probably 4 or 4 ½” blade. Bought in 1984 for $240 iirc, and still tight as new with just blade wear from two decades of use & sharpening. A few others, but nothing worth going into.
DW – please take the advice of others above. I used to be ‘into’ throwing knives & such myself, but they’re not overly practical. Same with butterfly knives, especially the cheap truckstop or gunshow versions.
You can get a new, tough-as-nails Buck 110 folder for under $30 at a lot of stores, and the fixed-blade 119 for probably $40 or so. The 110’s somewhat large for some pocket knife uses, so the 112 may be worth considering; it’s just a somewhat-shrunk 110, but I don’t know if it’s as tough or not.
A 110 isn’t as sleek or sexy as some of the new knives available, but I it will last probably a lifetime, and it’s priced so that you can afford it and won’t have nightmares about losing it.
The 119 is right up there too, although as I said, I just personally don’t like Buck’s black phenolic handle that much. A Gerber Freeman has a thinner blade, so you lose some prybar capability compared to the Buck, but it has a nice forefinger cutout that (combined with the relatively short, curved blade) gives great control. The Gerber’s wood handle slabs lose their varnish finish eventually, but they still stay in decent shape, I assume from absorbing oils from my hand when used.
Other good advice others gave is the multi-tool. Your Wave is an excellent choice (at least, my Wave works great). I carried Gerber multi-tools for years and really liked their utility, but the Wave is definitely several steps up.
A Leatherman Wave, a Buck 119 sheath knife and a Buck 110 folder, would let you handle any non-machete knife chore that I can think of. Since you already have the Wave, a 110 and 119 could be had for just $70 or $75 total, even if you didn’t shop around, and your knife needs would be met for a long time to come.
Wylycoyte
07-08-2005, 02:29 PM
The combination of an Ontario 12" machete and a Swiss Army rucksack or Leatherman WAVE give more utility than most of the giant flashy "Fussy Perfection!" paperweights.
Yeah, I know that's blunt and curmudgeonly, but there it is. If you still feel the need for a some big tiger-striped POS that can do everything but cut well, just take a blowtorch and make pretty patterns on something like this:
krept
07-08-2005, 05:22 PM
lol someone must have put silly sauce in your milk
unlike the Demi thing, I'm gonna ride with this one.
Cool thoughts the man himself:
We are not in the business of a "vouge tactical look". We are in the business of making
tools for those who need them. Warriors who's life depends on their tools. Let me go
ahead and re-phrase that for you. If we build a knife that fails, someone may die. That is
the way we run our business. The fact that people other than warriors buy our knives is
awesome. We love making knives. We do our best to make every customer happy. Be
they a Force Recon Marine or a computer geek. But the geek, (no offence, just a
stereotype) will not generally die if his blade fails. Therefor we build knives for hard -ass
use.
For those of you who prefer to lift your nose to this approach, sorry, its your loss. Look a
little deeper sometime. Take a little time to expand your horizons. Try to understand that
which you cannot fathom. What is it that you dislike about "crowbars?" The thickness?
The loss of ergonomics? Did you know that every Strider Knife is available in any
thickness? In either hollow or full bevel grind. Did you know that we do actually offer
ergonomic handles? Why then , you ask, are they not all ergonomic? I'll tell you...
Ergonomics have only a very small place in my heart. Let me quantify that. Ergonomics on
tactical (Oops) WAR knives, have no place. Here's why: During high stress, fine motor
skill is destroyed. I see all these "knife fighters" looking for blades that feel so great in
your hand, you would think it was their cock. Now...lets insert stress... go run a mile at a
six minute pace, let me punch you in the face a few times, and finally, Ill kick you in the
balls. At this point, the last thing you want is your dick in your hand. You want a chunk
of blade that is locked in. Period. Weather its land warfare and your about to have your
ass handed to you because you need the ammo in that air drop, or CQB and (bummer)
you've made the transition to knife...or...your ass is in a jam on the subway...it doesn't
matter. Comfort is not a thought. Rock solid grip is everything. Who gives a **** about
a hot spot on your hand. My 1911 isn't ergonomic either. It's a big chunk of death. That's
why it work so well.
Knives are tools. Usually design specific. If you want something that a maker doesn't
have, either talk to them about it, they will usually help you out, or move on. There are a
great number of makers out there. Most of which make great knives. Some, like
ourselves, usually stick to what they do best.
Some will make whatever you desire. Look for a style that is pleasing to you and go for it.
But when you speak of that which you do not know, you lose site of who you are. And
the respect of those around you.
For those who serve
Mick Strider
Have you USED a Strider?
cheers
Wylycoyte
07-08-2005, 07:45 PM
lol someone must have put silly sauce in your milk
unlike the Demi thing, I'm gonna ride with this one.
You mean the one where you took up multiple pages of information upholding someone's info as cutting edge, then finally admitted that you didn't have much knowledge of other trainers and thus couldn't make a fair comparison of material? And that you kept recommending the material so highly because it had videos on it? Big of you!
Oh, and I don't drink milk. There was bourbon in my coffee last night, though. :D
Hmmm...cool thoughts, eh? Let's have a look at them...
Nope, didn't know the knives were available in different grinds and thicknesses, but that doesn't really bother me much. I'm used to having to hack up a knife to make it into what I want it to be. Same with the handle.
Ok, a "go to war knife"...interesting term for a knife that someone is going to lug around and use far more often to open cans, MRE packs and pry open boxes (military) and whittle, skin, split wood, and slice veggies (outdoorsy guy). While I can appreciate the need for a beefier blade to account for (mis)use of the knife, he then goes on to speak of purpose-designed tools. This is my bone of contention...what does a similar-sized blade of his do better than say, a Cold Steel Master Hunter can't? Get stuck in a vice and bent every which way and survive? While interesting, I'm not seeing a whole lot of relevance there. Prying someone out of some wreckage, maybe? Perhaps I need to open my mind enough to see that a knife can and should be used as a piton if need arise. I'm more than open to revising my opinion if I see it needs to be done so, which brings us to the question...
Have you USED a Strider?
Yes. Also Busses (various models), Mad Dog ATAK, TAK and RTAK from Randall/Ontario, various Ontarios, various Beckers...having seen them in use and misuse as well as using them myself I am pretty particular about what I like in a blade, depending on what I'm going to do with it.
For a small use knife, I like about a 4" blade, clip or drop point. The tanto can be made to work, but it's not as friendly for the task. I also like a little SAK or multitool for the gadgetry, and for keeping the little blade as sharp as a scalpel. The more I play with larger knives, the more I like 9"+ blades. The mid-sized 7 inchers are awkward for little knife tasks and have a problem with chopping with any effectiveness. Also, the larger blades can be used for shaping as a draw knife. A flat back is also good due to having to beat the thing with a baton, use it as a draw knife or have your thumb or hand on the back, and serrations often just plain suck, as they're either in the place where you want your thumb or where you whittle. Last and most important, I want the damned thing to cut like crazy....that's the whole reason I've got a knife in the first place, and that's where most of the tacticals lose out without major surgery. Usually a flat grind will work, and I'm not particularly choosy about the metal so long as it suits the tasks I plan on using the knife for. The smaller knives need to take a fine edge and I don't mind if I have to rehone them fairly often, but the bigger ones should withstand more pounding, if possible. I like a 4" Mora for this reason...cheap and takes a wicked edge. I can't pry open a safe with it though, darn it. :-punch:
Let's apply that and see what we can come up with in the Strider line...the majority of them that I've seen, handled and tried using where more along this line...
http://www.plazacutlery.com/Strider/Strider0830310FRONT.htm
So you can see, based on my criteria, why I'd dislike them. I keep trying to figure out exactly what to do with them besides open my mail and scowl menacingly while doing so.
Let's look further at the catalog line to see what I might be missing, though...
This one'd be pretty kickin' if it actually had a handle. :p
http://www.primoknives.com/strider208.html
And yes, I know why it doesn't...I still like the blade shape, though. It'd be a probably be a kickin field knife.
Some of the folders down toward the lower half of the page look pretty decent, too:
http://hersir.homestead.com/CustomStrider.html
Figure I'll finish up with more cool words, since it's relevant here...
"You can't even tell an asshole to **** off these days without a discussion."
- Mick Strider
What I don't understand is, whats with the cord wrapped handles. Seems like the cord would wear or come loose pretty quick. Oh yeah. It looks "tactical" and you can charge more for it. I'd rather have something else to cover my handle.
Maybe I'm missing something.
RIKA
Magnum88C
07-08-2005, 08:38 PM
I've gone through it before, but here's my favorites:
http://www.swampratknifeworks.com/images/battleratsm.jpg
Swamp Rat Knifeworks Battle Rat -- the quintessential BFK. From the Swamp Rat site:
This big, 9-1/2" long, wide-bodied Bowie is setting performance standards that blades costing three times as much can only dream of achieving. The ultra wide blade offers unbelievable cutting and slicing ability, while the differentially tempered blade delivers untouchable toughness and durability. The shock absorbing Resiprene C handle will absorb the majority of the impact and will allow for extended use with less fatigue. When you need the ultimate survival knife, the Battle Rat will prove to be the ultimate in angry steel.
Basically it's a Busse Battle Mistress, but for $149.
If money is a problem, the Ontario Spec Plus SP1 Marine:
http://www.knivesplus.com/media/QN-SP1.jpg
would be the ticket. The grip is much better than the standard Ontario or Ka-Bar, and has a lanyard loop, which is a plus for a BFK. The BattleRat has supplanted mine in my kit, but my SP1 is all scratched to hell from years of long use, and still sit, sharpened, ready for use. It's about ¼ the price of the BattleRat. This knife is worth more than you pay for it.
For dressing game, in order of preference, are:
Swamp Rat Bog Dog
http://www.swampratknifeworks.com/images/d2.jpg
Swamp Rat Bandicoot:
http://www.swampratknifeworks.com/images/bandicootsm.jpg
Swamp Rat Howling Rat:
http://www.swampratknifeworks.com/images/howlingratsm.jpg
Or the Buck Vanguard:
http://www.knivesplus.com/media/BU-192BR.jpg
The Victorinox Rucksack is an all-day everyday pocket knife, I like the fact that it's a lockblade:
http://www.knivesplus.com/media/VN-53661.jpg
My multiplier of choice is the Gerber Multi-Plier 600 Pro Scout Needlenose
http://www.gerbertools.com/Img_M/7563.jpg
And the ubiquitous Buck 110, a must have.
http://www.knivesplus.com/media/BU-110.jpg
The Victorinox, the Buck 110 and the Gerber go with me everyday. In fact, I used to hate multitools, but I find myself unable to go throughout the day without using the Gerber, EVERY DAY.
gripper
07-08-2005, 08:47 PM
Rika;do you know if Camillus makes a single edge version of the boot knife??As I reside in Massghanistan,my"betters" felt the need many years ago to loff up an old forgotten law that prohibited "dirks",and other sharp pointy's with two cutting edges.BTW,I like the avatar;it resembles an old green ink tyattoo on my back(rear view,Valkyrie reaching up with a burning sword).
Wylycoyte
07-08-2005, 08:52 PM
If I wasn't such a cheap bastard I'd already have one of these:
http://www.bladeforums.com/features/tkkreview.shtml
It's one of the few spendy knives I've seen thus far that I really like.
gripper
07-08-2005, 09:03 PM
Thgat lokoks pretty useful...hey what do you think of the CKRT Ryan Plan B??someone gave one to me a coulpe of years ago(along with an Endura),andfor something you can get online for under $30,its alittle cutting machine;kind of a Barong point neck knife,with a decent recurve to it.Good tip ,as well.Its got maybe a 3.3-3.5 inch blade,with a grip that suits me.I was thinking the blade geometry might work well on a larger design(5.5 to 7 inches).
krept
07-08-2005, 09:30 PM
lol what can a strider do that a cs cant? nothing ;)
strider started using 550 for the handles inspired by the japanese silk wrapped blades. try one, it holds very well. even in oil, blood or other junk. if it gets grubby just boil it. rambo can use it to make knife into spear or for survival.
i prefer spearpoints, was just showing dw tantos cos he mentd them. i got one bcos i wanted more for tip strength.
glenlivits single malt on rocks for me
krept
07-08-2005, 09:32 PM
ahh kid down, type with two hands. I like the design of the midsized shivworks blade. too bad it's not double edged.
Rika;do you know if Camillus makes a single edge version of the boot knife??As I reside in Massghanistan,my"betters" felt the need many years ago to loff up an old forgotten law that prohibited "dirks",and other sharp pointy's with two cutting edges.BTW,I like the avatar;it resembles an old green ink tyattoo on my back(rear view,Valkyrie reaching up with a burning sword).
Gripper, I pretty much follow knives but I have never seen a single edge version. I know it sounds crude but what if you just ground off one of the double edges. Would it be legal then?
Thank you for the compliment on my avatar. I would really like some Valkyries but haven't found any decent ones.
RIKA
John in AR
07-08-2005, 11:34 PM
"...Nighthawk (don’t remember if it’s Buck or Gerber for some reason), is a very good knife, although it’s got a more pointed blade than I prefer. "
Not that it matters, but it bugged me that I didn't remember. So I pulled it out of the safe; it's a Buck model 650.
Chippathingy
07-09-2005, 02:22 AM
I wouldn't hesitate to buy anything made by Cold Steel.
My Recon Tanto has always stayed razor sharp, and is tuff as hell.
The ads don't lie.
I’ve seen Gerber MKII's dropped 12in onto a porcelain sink and had the tips broke off.
Sure it's thin dagger, but still.
Its the 21st century, ITRL **** happens.
Cold Steels can be used to cut steel with little damage.
Kershaw is a pain in the ass, I have to sharpen my Ken Onion Assisted openers about every 3rd time I use it, for stuff around the house (!)
Neat, but a PITA...
My Spyderco folders (Delica, Endura) never let me down either. I've bought multiple copies of the serrated, and partially serrated for me and the Mrs. without regret.
We grab em' with our keys in the morning.
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