a poor grip on the gun in the rig, and getting the weak hand grip on the other hand, in a timely fashion. You don't need to fire a shot in order to work on those two problems.
A mirror is a pretty good aid to learning the draw. Check your movement in one, both from the front and from the side. Strive for minimum movement, smoothly flowing movement, with everything occuring at the proper time during the "stroke". I do not favor waiting until the gun is level to begin applying trigger pressure, much less disengaging th e safety. You are quite likely to have to fire a 1 hand point shot, at hip level, either against a dog or a man, so do NOT teach yourself not to disengage the safety until you have both hands on the gun (much less at eye level). The safety goes off as soon as the gun begins its forward stroke. The trigger "slack' is taken-up at the same time. Then the weak hand goes onto the other hand, and as the gun comes up, 1-2 lbs of the trigger-effort is added. As the gun comes to eye level, bring it up with the front sight "high" above the rear sight. Seeing it and THEN aligning the rear notch (if indeed you need the sights at ALL) is considerably faster than "hunting" for the front sight, "thru" the notch of the rear sight.
Begin the draw practice with presentations from "low-ready", safety engaged, both hands on the gun, at a 45 degree angle, arms outstretched, isomentric pressure of the hands already applied. After you can react, raise the gun, and average .60 second for a hit on 10" circle at ten feet, you are ready for draw practice.
Start hand ON the gun, in the belt- rig, with the weak hand palm on your stomach. As your gun hand goes forward and up, the weak hand slides onto the strong hand, from the SIDE. Do NOT hold your weak hand out, "waiting" for the gun. That's a REALLY good way to shoot your weak hand. When your hand on gun times average under .80 second to react, draw, hit 10" at 10 ft, you can begin work from hands at sides. Then try same from surrender. When you can average under 1.0 second from a varity of hand starts, you can begin working on the ccw draw. When you get the ccw draw averaging under 1.2 seconds, to include reaction time, on an electronic shooting timer, you are among the FEW thousand men in the world who are that fast.
If and when you ever average under 1.0 second for such a ccw draw and hit, you are among the few hundred, perhaps just a few score, men in the world who are that fast. Such speed and accuracy take a fanatical amount of disciplined effort to attain, given realistic ccw garment, like a FASTENED coat, or sweater, sweatshirt, or hung out shirttail concealing the gun. Just your reaction time is .20-.25 second, so if you can react,ccw draw and hit in sub-1.0 second, the actual "move" is .75 second.
Adding the weak hand always slows things about .10-.15 second, as vs a 1 handed point shot. You dont AIM and make such a 1.0 second draw. At best, you "confirm" your "feel" of the shot with a "flash' of the front sight, superimposed on the center of the target, AS the gun fires. GET both hands on the gun,if you POSSIBLY can, beyond arm's length firing distances. You will probably need more than one shot, and the other hand's being on the gun helps both recoil-recovery times, and it is a big help if you have to "traverse" the gun, either to another attacker, or to keep your gun "on" a moving, single attacker.
A mirror is a pretty good aid to learning the draw. Check your movement in one, both from the front and from the side. Strive for minimum movement, smoothly flowing movement, with everything occuring at the proper time during the "stroke". I do not favor waiting until the gun is level to begin applying trigger pressure, much less disengaging th e safety. You are quite likely to have to fire a 1 hand point shot, at hip level, either against a dog or a man, so do NOT teach yourself not to disengage the safety until you have both hands on the gun (much less at eye level). The safety goes off as soon as the gun begins its forward stroke. The trigger "slack' is taken-up at the same time. Then the weak hand goes onto the other hand, and as the gun comes up, 1-2 lbs of the trigger-effort is added. As the gun comes to eye level, bring it up with the front sight "high" above the rear sight. Seeing it and THEN aligning the rear notch (if indeed you need the sights at ALL) is considerably faster than "hunting" for the front sight, "thru" the notch of the rear sight.
Begin the draw practice with presentations from "low-ready", safety engaged, both hands on the gun, at a 45 degree angle, arms outstretched, isomentric pressure of the hands already applied. After you can react, raise the gun, and average .60 second for a hit on 10" circle at ten feet, you are ready for draw practice.
Start hand ON the gun, in the belt- rig, with the weak hand palm on your stomach. As your gun hand goes forward and up, the weak hand slides onto the strong hand, from the SIDE. Do NOT hold your weak hand out, "waiting" for the gun. That's a REALLY good way to shoot your weak hand. When your hand on gun times average under .80 second to react, draw, hit 10" at 10 ft, you can begin work from hands at sides. Then try same from surrender. When you can average under 1.0 second from a varity of hand starts, you can begin working on the ccw draw. When you get the ccw draw averaging under 1.2 seconds, to include reaction time, on an electronic shooting timer, you are among the FEW thousand men in the world who are that fast.
If and when you ever average under 1.0 second for such a ccw draw and hit, you are among the few hundred, perhaps just a few score, men in the world who are that fast. Such speed and accuracy take a fanatical amount of disciplined effort to attain, given realistic ccw garment, like a FASTENED coat, or sweater, sweatshirt, or hung out shirttail concealing the gun. Just your reaction time is .20-.25 second, so if you can react,ccw draw and hit in sub-1.0 second, the actual "move" is .75 second.
Adding the weak hand always slows things about .10-.15 second, as vs a 1 handed point shot. You dont AIM and make such a 1.0 second draw. At best, you "confirm" your "feel" of the shot with a "flash' of the front sight, superimposed on the center of the target, AS the gun fires. GET both hands on the gun,if you POSSIBLY can, beyond arm's length firing distances. You will probably need more than one shot, and the other hand's being on the gun helps both recoil-recovery times, and it is a big help if you have to "traverse" the gun, either to another attacker, or to keep your gun "on" a moving, single attacker.
