Problem happens even after thoroughly cleaning and oiling Ruger 10-22 rifle: After a shell is ejected, next shell is chambered but trigger doesn't fully cock. After a max of 50 shots problem occurs and you have to manually pull bolt back to fully cock trigger. Any ideas on what is going on here?
22 jam
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How light is the trigger pull and is it consitant? Reason I'm asking is it sounds like the hammer is wanting to follow behind the bolt. Could be from a worn trigger group or a poorly done trigger job.
I'm also wondering if the 10/22 can manage to eject and chamber a round without fully cocking the hammer. If it can it could be short cycling due to bad/weak ammo or a pitted chamber.
I'm also wondering if the 10/22 can manage to eject and chamber a round without fully cocking the hammer. If it can it could be short cycling due to bad/weak ammo or a pitted chamber.
How many rounds have you fired thru this gun? Same type of ammo? Sounds like the ammo doesn't have enough poop to cock the hammer,altho it has enough to cycle the bolt. Try other types of ammo. Personally, I'd pull the barrel, true up the polishing point of the Dremel, and do a couple of revolutions of the sides of the chamber. Many .22 auto chambers aren't nearly smooth enough for trouble free ejection. If there's too much resistance to the fired case's extraction, it can throw off the timing and function of any autoloader. So I start there with a "problem" autoloader,( if it's not a magazine related malfunction, anyway), expecially with a .22, and especially if the barrel is easily removed
What you said is totally incorrect.andy said:
Most hammer equipped auto's have the hammer behind the bolt. As the bolt moves rearward it cocks the hammer past the cock notch. When the bolt returns forward the hammer rotates slightly forward until the sear engages the hammer's cock notch.
If the bolt can eject the empty and cycle a fresh round, then the hammer can cock. TODD is right about this problem. The hammer clearly must be riding forward behind the bolt.
If there is too much resistance between the fired case and the chamber wall, then how could the fresh round be fed? Obviously the boltface traveled past the rear of the magazine or else it could not have stripped the fresh cartridge. This is a sear/hammer or disconnector issue.
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"Can a 10/22 eject and chamber without cocking the hammer? Hmm?
Can a 1911 eject and chamber without cocking the hammer? Hmm?"
GB is correct. I checked my 1911 and 10-22. The 1911 can't eject or chamber without cocking the hammer. The 10-22 might blowback eject but cannot chamber a rd without cocking the hammer. GK is FOS as usual.
RIKA
Can a 1911 eject and chamber without cocking the hammer? Hmm?"
GB is correct. I checked my 1911 and 10-22. The 1911 can't eject or chamber without cocking the hammer. The 10-22 might blowback eject but cannot chamber a rd without cocking the hammer. GK is FOS as usual.
RIKA
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1,118 Posts
Now after getting all that advice on what to do (some of it obviously very, very wrong if you believe the others, and I do) here is some advice from me. Contact the Sturm-Ruger Firearms Company. If this is a new gun they will probably fix it for free, if it is an old gun they may fix it for free. Even if they charge, it will likely not be all that much to have it fixed. If shipping is inconvenient then there may be an authorized Ruger gunsmith in your area, check with the company to find out. Who know, you may contact Ruger and find out that it is a problem easily fixed by yourself.
I can think of no better source to contact about a problem with a firearm than that firearm's manufacturer. Remember when you ask online, there is too often the chance of getting knucklehead replies that may sound to you as if they know what they are talking about. The results of taking such advice may cause your firearm to blow up, and injure you; or maybe just something like void a warranty. Of course modifying a firearm can have lega and civil repercussions should you ever shoot someone with it even if you were justified as it can make you look like some sort of gun whacko dependant upon the modifications you made. Be leery of anyone who tells you to remove metal in any amount without having a real expert look at the gun and figure out the problem first.
Good luck,
Glenn B
I can think of no better source to contact about a problem with a firearm than that firearm's manufacturer. Remember when you ask online, there is too often the chance of getting knucklehead replies that may sound to you as if they know what they are talking about. The results of taking such advice may cause your firearm to blow up, and injure you; or maybe just something like void a warranty. Of course modifying a firearm can have lega and civil repercussions should you ever shoot someone with it even if you were justified as it can make you look like some sort of gun whacko dependant upon the modifications you made. Be leery of anyone who tells you to remove metal in any amount without having a real expert look at the gun and figure out the problem first.
Good luck,
Glenn B
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Sturm, Ruger & Co., Inc.
Attn: Service Department
411 Sunapee Street
Newport NH 03773
Telephone: 603-865-2442
Fax: 603-863-6165
Attn: Service Department
411 Sunapee Street
Newport NH 03773
Telephone: 603-865-2442
Fax: 603-863-6165
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