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Discussion Starter #1
I'm not really a bp guy but...
I picked up an old rusty 45 cal bp pistol action, trigger and barrel from a garage sale last year.($5) It was in a can of old nuts and bolts and was so rusty it was fuzzy and pitted pretty bad. After I had cleaned it up I searched the net and found that it was a cheap kit pistol from Dixie gun works. A “Philadelphia Derringer” like the one that did in Abe Lincoln. I pulled up some different “Derringers” on the net to look at styling, cut my own stock, made some brass inlays (I cheated and used a cnc mill with an engraving cutter) and hand checkered the grips.(I didn’t have a checkering tool so I used some of my machinist files) but I have run into a problem. I haven’t “browned” a barrel yet and wondered if any of you have any tips for a good finish? Also what stain would you recommend for this piece?
I know it’s a cheap POS but it was a nice winter project.


 

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You did a good job Teyex. Love those inlays. About browning, its a piece of cake. I used a product called Birchwood Caseys Plum Brown on a ML kit barrel and it turned out great. You heat the cleaned and degreased metal with a propane torch until its 'spit sizzle' hot and apply the Plum Brown; I used a lambswool dauber. It takes several applications to get a nice dark even finish. Don't remember exactly but don't think I even had to use a neutralizer. Anyway, apply oil afterwards and you're done. Its a great product that gives fine results and is practically foolproof.

You might look at the Brownells website as they may have even better and more up to date products.

Oh, you need a triggerguard to be authentic.

RIKA
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the tips!! Damb, you sure know your guns. :)
I have a small ceramic oven that can reach 2k deg. F I'm guessing "spit sizzle hot" would be in the range of 200 - 500 F
RIKA said:
Oh, you need a triggerguard to be authentic.RIKA
"Trigger guards? we don't need no stinking trigger guards!" just kidding.

I'm still debating on ordering or manufacturing the piece myself.
I'll probably make it myself. I'm also missing all of the hardware, but I think I can scrounge up something to make it work.

Any ideas on the finish?
 

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Thank you, kind sir. Spit sizzle should be around 175 - 200deg. since water boils at 212deg.

"Any ideas on the finish?" What finish are you speaking of? The wood?

I want to see a pic when derringer is finished.

RIKA :)
 

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Discussion Starter #6
RIKA said:
"Any ideas on the finish?" What finish are you speaking of? The wood?

I want to see a pic when derringer is finished.

RIKA :)
Oops, guess I went to "spit vaporize". Thanx for the correction. :)

Sorry I wasn’t clear on the finish. I meant the wood. There seems to be a variety of different finishes even during that “period”. Have any ideas?

I'll be sure to post the pics when its finished. And if I practice hard I might even beat Gunkid in IPSC. :nyah: :rofl:
 

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One of the nicest finishes I use is Formbys Low Gloss Tung Oil Finish. Makes walnut a pretty reddish brown color and isn't shiny glossy like modern finishes. I used it on a 1903 Springfield stock that I restored. It was really cruddy and the cartouches were already sanded out so I didn't destroy collector value. Maybe I'll post photos later. The stock gives appearance of having original finish from the 1930's.

RIKA
 

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Discussion Starter #8
RIKA said:
One of the nicest finishes I use is Formbys Low Gloss Tung Oil Finish. Makes walnut a pretty reddish brown color and isn't shiny glossy like modern finishes. I used it on a 1903 Springfield stock that I restored. It was really cruddy and the cartouches were already sanded out so I didn't destroy collector value. Maybe I'll post photos later. The stock gives appearance of having original finish from the 1930's.

RIKA
Sweet, thanx again for the ideas!!!

I would like to see a pic of that Springfield stock.
 

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Okay, here goes. Please bear in mind that the stock was dented, blackened and soaked in grease. Sorry there is no 'before' photo.

Below are the after photos. I replaced the WW2 Remmy bolt with a correct 1930's era Springy bolt. The front sight hood is a genuine USMC model actually made to shoot with on the rifle and not a front sight protector as most of them were.

RIKA
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Excellent job! You’re astounding.
Dayum, they just don’t make wimmin like you very often!
I like the Tung Oil finish so I’ll give it a go.
Thanx Rika.
:)
 
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