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Discussion Starter #1
why is it that you can't just look at what the HIT does to the target? what difference does it make to the TARGET, whether you shot it at 10 ft with a 356 pocket auto, or at 100 yds with a .22 Hornet? 45 grs at 2200 fps in either case, with the 9mm being more of a shocker, due to its being 2.5x larger in "frontal area" than the .22.

i"ve never said that the pocket 356 is a powerhouse, just that its far superior to to a 38 snub, and quite a bit superior to a pocket .40 using 180 gr jhp's.

And for the record, I did a lot of field testing in CO, 11 years ago, not 30 years ago. Enough to know that there's been no phenomenal change in how jhp's perform on flesh and blood. The 135 gr Corbon .40 load, from a 3" barrel will expand ok (having maybe 1200 fps) but it's not adequately controlable in a 16 oz gun. A buddy had the (soon dropped from production) P40 keltec and the combination sucked.

Corbon really should produce a hollowbased 80 gr 380 load, so the bullet could be pulled and loaded to 1450 in a pocket 357 sig. That would be 350 ft lbs, with non plus P 9mm type recoil.
 

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That .356 TSW- is anyone still loading ammo or making guns for it? Another question- is there any interchangeability with other calibers,either stock or with a barrel & spring swap?
Just curious-I had heard of this years ago, but it seems to have faded from view. Not knocking the cartridge, just wondering about available ammo,components and guns.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
you can get very close, with 9x21 brass from starline. Any machine shop can deepen any 9x19 chamber to take the 9x21. There's no advantage to this or the 356 unless you use very lw, hollowbased bullets, at very high velocities. the same springs and mags work fine, All you need (gunwise) is a spare barrel. 9x21 is a tapered case, like the Luger rd, , 356 is straightwall.

Nobody but Federal ever offered ammo for 356 and then only for 2 years. It's a pointless rd with standard weight bullets, or in guns that aint carried in a pocket rig. 9x21 is used in italy, cause civilians there can't have guns that are chambered for military or police rds.

Depending upon the maker of the dies, some are marked for 9x21, and work fine for 9x19. but the other way around, some people claim that 9x19 dies size down the brass a bit too much, which can cause bulges in the 9x21 case wall when you seat the bullet. However, they are not using the very short, hollowbased bullets that are what I recommend. My wife bought dies marked 9 x 21 cause she had this in mind all along. :)

To experiment with the very lw bullets, you melt the lead out of 90 gr jhp's and replace it with epoxy. If you like what you see on the chronograph and with the lack of pressure signs on the casings, you can then use a vise, hacksaw, drill, handheld grinder (harbor freight is $20 less than Dremel) and file to shape some bullets out of copper rod. A micrometer is necessary, also. Harbor freight models suffice. when you get the OD down within .002" of .355, switch to crocus cloth or very fine sandpaper, taped to a flat file. The paper will "clog" very quickly with metal from the solid aluminum or copper rod.

WARNING! If you use brass or bronze rod as material from which to make a bullet, you will be breaking federal AP handgun ammo laws. 10 years in prison! Cut the shaped bullet off of the rod while it is spinning in the drill, which is clamped in the vise. If you take great care, you can do this with the cutoff disk in the Dremel.

WEAR eye protection and work on the side of the drill that has things turning AWAY from you! Then if your tool somehow "catches' on the spinning rod, you shouldn't be harmed. If you want to try the split nose design, Exacto makes a tiny hacksaw that works well for the job.

In a 5" barrel, you'll see 45 grs at 2350 fps, assuming that you use Alliant Bullseye powder, and have a huge, conical hollowbase cavity. To make this cavity, use the dremel or another power drill to drill a hole in the center of the base, maybe 1/4" deep and 1/8" ID. then use a tapered, conical rotary file to make the final cavity shape. Don't make the edge of the "skirt" too thin at the base, cause it can then shear off and get stuck in the barrel. Leave 1/16" of skirt thickness all around. you do this drilling and shaping with the bullet spinning in the drill, of course.

Technically, "beryllium-alloy" copper is illegal to so use, too. Dumbass law.

But i "have no practical experience". Just ask Garand about that.
 
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