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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i have been meaning to bring this up, why not now?

what am i doing wrong, as i average only 3 to 4 reloadings on my 22-250 brass before vertical case neck splitting, majority of cases are winchester[75%] federal[25%]

my case trimer[hand cranked] is set and locked for the 22-250 only.

i will chamfer/ream by hand other cartridge cases to length

now i admit to going a 1/2 grain[or so] on maxium loads before,

the best printing group load is

36 grains IMR4064

with 52grain speer h.p

the little ruger#77 R.S.I. seems to tight chamber every thing[even factory new ammo]

although i have not lubed the inside of case neck before resizing, i will start,


now here's the deal! i will buy 100 new cases, and keep BETTER records
on this lot, if any body can give me insights on this once high intensity
wildcat rd. and what i can/could do to lenghten case life!

please don't tell me to download to .223 levels

or heaven forbid, just quit shooting the dang thing[i've heard them both]


i would like any input, as i've resigned to the fact ,that's just the way it is,
with this cartridge.


thanks. :headbang:
 

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I've never done it but have heard that annealing the case necks helps. Perhaps someone with more knowledge can comment.

RIKA
 

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Do you have the same problem with factory ammo?
 

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supposedly there's 2 ways to anneal rifle case necks

hold them in pliers, dip them into molten lead, swirl them around a bit. Or stand them up in water, up to their shoulders, and play a propane torch over the necks.
 

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Annealing might help. If you do it, the water/torch method is the one I would use. Heat the necks to a light blue color (660-670 degrees). Any hotter will make the cases too soft to provide proper tension on the bullet, not hot enough and you've wasted your time. That lead bath that Andy mentioned would work if the lead was the proper temperature, but you run the chance of annealing back too far. You want to anneal the neck only.

Seems that only 3 loadings wouldn't work-harden the brass so much as to need annealing. Something you might want to check is how much you are actually working the brass. I'd mic the neck diameter before sizing, mic one after it is fully sized and also size and mic one sized with the expander ball removed from the die. It's possible, but not too probable (unless it's a Hornady die set), that you have a bad die, sizing too small and then expanding back excessively.

DC
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
GARAND , no, not with factory ammo

just, my reloads!

thanks, gang! i'm going to print this page out ,and put it in my die kit!

i might be over working my case necks!


thanks for your imput, i feel i'm better off now with your help/hints/advice
than i was before!
 
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