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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just received my new Savage Model 10FP-LE2.

A local gunsmith has suggested that I use windage-adjustable rings since sometimes the scope mount screws are drilled a little off, making a scope use up a lot of its windage adjustment to compensate for off-center mounts.

I really would like to use the rigid military type scope mount (non-adjustable), not only for rigidness but for "authenticity" on this police "sniper" rifle as well.

Is there a way for me, as an end-user, to check the "trueness" of the drilled and tapped holes for the scope mounts, so that I'll know before I buy mounts and rings whether or not I'm going to need windage-adjustable rings/bases? Or are we talking about variations so minute that I literally will not know until I or my gunsmith try boresighting the scope?

Thanks.
 

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There are several ways of checking this. Honestly, I don't think you really need to worry about it since most scopes give between 45-90 MOA of windage adjustment overall.

If you really want to check it out, I recommend you send the rifle to Georgia Precision and have George Gardner check it. He's got the right equipment and knowledge on the subject.

If you are a serious shooter, get the Badger Ordnance rings and mounts. Use the windage to compensate for slightly off mounting taps.

If you want to play it cheap, you can mount the scope with the windage centered and see how far off left or right you are. Unless it's 5+ MOA off or more, you really can't be sure that way though.

Mike
 

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using the WESOG mind set, I wonder if one of those laser levels you see on TV couldn't be used to check.

do something like line the laser line along the center of both holes and see where it falls long the barrel and receiver.

then maybe do the same thing on either edge of the holes.

while it wouldn't be super precise, since it would still rely on the old mark I eyeballs, it should however, allow you to spot anything majorly out of kilter.

I bet that if you were really ambitious, you could build a jig to do fairly precise checking...

just a thought from a WECSOGer.

:devil:
 

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IMO, unless it's GROSSLY out of true, why does it matter...?

If it's slightly off, the first time you sight in the scope it will be corrected thru scope adjustments. Hate to sound "low brow", but then I don't change my scope's turrets while shooting, either. Once "set", they stay set, and any hold-over or hold-off is something I do via the reticle.

My CAR is a Bushmaster, and like many Bushy's (at least many older Bushy's), the barrel is slightly 'off' true to the right. This means my rear sight is off-center to the left to compensate, but (again, IMO), so what...? It's "set", and it's now not an issue.

I realize the "tactical" scope turrets are meant to be 'adjusted' during use, but even those (I assume) would still be usable and valid if the scope is correctly "zeroed" initially.


FWIW, I also have a Savage 10-FPLE; with the longer (26"?) barrel. I added a Leupold VX-2 3-9x40, a Harris bipod, and a Rifle Basix trigger (gunsmith did the trigger; right at two pounds), and absolutely LOVE that thing; although I don't shoot it as much as some would. Main "using" guns are the AR, Glocks, and .22's; but the heavy .308 is comforting to have if I ever needed to "reach out and thump" something.

For what little it's worth, I'd suggest going with "normal" rings, and spend some money on a new trigger; either Timney or Rifle Basix. Savage rifles always seem to have sucky triggers (even the adjustable ones like the 10FP has) when they come from the factory. That new trigger made a huge difference in how much I like the gun.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
John in AR said:
IMO, unless it's GROSSLY out of true, why does it matter...?

If it's slightly off, the first time you sight in the scope it will be corrected thru scope adjustments. Hate to sound "low brow", but then I don't change my scope's turrets while shooting, either. Once "set", they stay set, and any hold-over or hold-off is something I do via the reticle.

I realize the "tactical" scope turrets are meant to be 'adjusted' during use, but even those (I assume) would still be usable and valid if the scope is correctly "zeroed" initially.
I know there are people who set their zero for one distance and then "holdover" for every other range. I'm not one of them. I make jokes about scopes with target turrets having "Dial-A-Group" capability, since you simply keep in mind the number of clicks up or down to change ranges depending on your zero.

I think questions of "out of true" really only begin to cause problems at long ranges. That's why "hunting" rifles can get away with 2 inch groups and target rifles can't. Any minute variation at 100 yards becomes a huge liability at long range.


For what little it's worth, I'd suggest going with "normal" rings, and spend some money on a new trigger; either Timney or Rifle Basix. Savage rifles always seem to have sucky triggers (even the adjustable ones like the 10FP has) when they come from the factory. That new trigger made a huge difference in how much I like the gun.
I love the Accutrigger. I've used Timney triggers in the past, but I honestly can't tell much difference, unless you just have a horror of using a rifle that has--er--umm, a "Glock" trigger.
 

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I see what your refering too. It isn't the scope mount.

What you are experiencing is the stadia not being at perfect horizontal and vertical. Basically, the scope works by quadrants. Up, Down, Left, Right. If the stadia are not perfectly aligned your shots will appear to veer off. So, if your shots are off to the side at longer ranges, you need to turn the scope in the rings slightly to correct the problem. The mounting holes have no bearing on this problem.

Mike
 

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I use a laser bore sighting device, which mounts on various caliber spuds to "bore sight" my scopes. I haven't found one set of mounts yet that was very close to where the laser indicated the bore center was.

I know how manufacturing tolerance stacks up affect a rifle. Like others have said here, I wouldn't worry about windage adjustments all that much.

Bill
 
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