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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Does anybody want to talk about the modifications you have made to your car or truck that will make it more efficient in a survival situation. Topics could include on board equipment and physical modifications to the vehicle including extra gas carriers, lights, armor etc.

Dad's pickup truck has heavy duty everything including towing. I paid out of my pocket months ago to have the lights modified with a switch to cut off the rear running and brake lights as well as the inside lights when you open the door.

Another theme would be the trailer that you will be pulling. How about your travel trailer?

I'll stand by and listen carefully because this can be very interesting. Maybe I can contribute too.

RIKA
 

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One basic thing to think about is getting a good off-road shock/vibration resistant battery. I've shook too many loose in my Jeep not to replace it with one of the Optima batteries.

Speaking of voltage that's another thing often neglected(like the one in my old Jeep) the electrical system. Inspect and replace anything that's worn and that can cause a short(like an old wiper switch causing a new wiper motor in someone's Jeep to burnout..groan).

Also inspect the suspension system, not just the shocks but springs, struts etc.,.
Another is paint job, don't go camo that will cal attention to yourself when on the regular roads but flat Tan, Brown, Primer Brown etc., depending on your AO are good choices.
One thing I'd like to get is a swing out tire carrier that fits two jerry cans on it behind the tire.
 

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I'd keep it simple and rugged.

For a 'survival' vehicle, a 2 ton cargo truck or a school bus might be appropriate due to it's carrying capacity.

One option to consider in a conversion to woodgas.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
andy said:
disabling the brakelights is illegal in most states, dumbass.
Maybe but not quite the federal felony that you regularly propose. That little switch will stay hidden until its needed so its not your concern. Besides, it came that way on the truck.

RIKA
 

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I'll second that battery upgrade.I prefer though to use group 31 heavy truck/industrial batteries.They are a few inches longer & about an inch taller than what you normally find in a pick up but,they are MUCH more vibration/damage resistant.They can be had with either the normal tapered battery posts or,the ones I prefer,3/8 threaded stainless posts.For vehicles w/a little extra room underhood Id definately recommend them.

Also,a switch to marine grade wiring isn't a bad idea either.The battery cables I made for my truck were the same gauge but had 3x the wires(smaller wires/tougher jacket material).

Another thing,a hidden remote master kill switch would be a good install.

The tail lamp disconnect switc is a good idea.It's only illegal if you use it.Besides,say you left it on.You get pulled over.Cop writes you up for defective equipment.You reach under the dash,flip the switch,presto-you just "had a bad fuse".problem solved-move along.

Two fullsize spare tires,a high lift jack,one of those portable battery pack starting aids,multiple[working]flashlights,an extra set of lockout hubs if your truck takes them,minimum 12v compressor[also aux.bicycle hand pump-good exercise!]

It goes w/o saying that you should have a decent tool kit already on board.

One other thing,off road lights.I expierimented with several as a youngster.What I found that works the best for me also happens to be the cheapest.:)

A GE bulb # 4537 is an aircraft landing light.The cost under ten bucks @ the part store.They throw an almost perfect cone of white light.They have an internal shield-looks like an eyebrow-that can deflect a lot of light down.Don't need to light up the sky,eh?For a mount I prefer the rubber housings w/ss hardware used for heavy equipment.The housing has a bit of flex even in sub-zero temps.Wiring was also easy.I bought a prewired harnes w/relay & switch made by HELLA.
Bulbs under $10ea.Rubber housings under $10.Wiring harness about $20.
 

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Another thing that I had forgotten.Every commercial truck we sell has to have safety triangles & a fire extinguisher.I skipped the triangle/reflectors and add fusees.The old style road flares.And a bigger extinguisher.
 

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Anaconda Power Pack



The Anaconda Power Pack is a self-contained Generator/Air Compressor/Storage Compartment large enough for a 130 Amp Wire Feed Welder, Power Tools or other Supplies built into a Crossover Tool Box. Inside is a Kohler 5000 Watt continuous Duty Generator Set, an Ingersoll Rand 11.3 CFM @ 90 PSI Air Compressor and a 2.8 cubic foot Storage Area. The Aluminum Tread Plate Box that fits all full size Pick-Ups and can be used in conjunction with Aux. Fuel Tanks. The drivers side Control Panel contains, Generator Start/Stop, Hour Meter, 120V and 240V Outlets, Air Gauges, Regulator, and Quick Connect, Lid Release, Light Switch, and Storage Drawer 18" x 36" x 6" deep.. Crossover box is 73.5" wide x 27" deep x 19" high and weighs 450 pounds empty.

The anaconda power pack is $6995.00 plus shipping/handling (ouch).
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
That power pack is nice. Wonder what kind of people need and can afford such a rig.

RIKA
 

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Well, the serious mudders have the Du-it-Yerselfer version. The generator powers the arc welder (great for trail repairs). I'll bet you can figure what the compressor's for. . .
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Magnum says "I'll bet you can figure what the compressor's for. . ."

I guess its for blowing up gunkid's ego when he gets depressed. :D

RIKA :)
 

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Magnum88C said:
Well, the serious mudders have the Du-it-Yerselfer version. The generator powers the arc welder (great for trail repairs). I'll bet you can figure what the compressor's for. . .
I think one brand is called The Green Machine, IIRC. I've considered that and buying my own components similar to the Power Pack.
I already have a halfway decent air compressor for fixing flats and a patch kit.
 

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Raider said:
Magnum says "I'll bet you can figure what the compressor's for. . ."

I guess its for blowing up gunkid's ego when he gets depressed. :D

RIKA :)
:roflmao1: :roflmao1: :roflmao1: :roflmao1:

Hey, even a lame punk like him needs to get a blow now and then. . .
 

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super sweet set up

you have there MAG 88[i'd work it for $, on the side]

mines just a stock f-150 4x4[95] with short wheel base, a rack for 5 gal.fuel can[it's got short little legs with just an 18 gal. tank] behind the tool box[crammed, full of simple low tehc. stuff ,even canned food/water,recovery gear,hy-lift jack/spare/repair gear,ect..


it's the 300cid, not enough power to spin/dig/tear it's self up, but will grandpa right threw with any thing else, i 'had to have' manual lock-outs on it.



thanks.
 

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Aw Brass, I wish I had that setup. I got the ******* Du-it-Yerselfer model (probably works just as good, just not as pretty, or expensive).

Man that '95 only has an 18 gal tank? I had a nice '98 that at least had a 25 gal tank on it. 'Course now with the 3/4-ton long bed I got 34 gallons :D.

Lot of people don't realize it, but the manual hubs are a LOT stronger and more capable than any auto-locker or cab-controlled locker. I like the Stainless Spicer models, is that what you've got?
 

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yeah! the full bed has twin tanks

this thing has the wheel base of a jeep[almost] the short bed version.

the lock-out hubs are factory ford[i've got it paid off 2+years now, whew!]


those truck payments/insurance, crack the whip on us working stiffs,ha!

funny all the stuff you can buy, when their paid off/no kids



thanks.
 
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