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Discussion Starter #1
Owwwww! All this talk about range queens (meaniing dainty firearms that don't get real use) makes me wince!

I carry my trusty Colt Officers 45 with me everywhere but she makes me uncomfortable. I replaced the rear sight with a Mec-Gar adjustable rear a long time ago - it was all I could find. Everytime I look at it, I think fragile.

Okay, can anybody suggest an adjustable drop in sight thats strong. Would even settle for a fixed sight thats high enough to file down to point of aim. You see, the problem is I shoot low (probably my fault).

Thank you!

RIKA :)
 

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bo-mar comes to mind

then there's iron sight gun works[i kinda know one of the brothers] they got a govt. conctract for ghost ring outfits for military pump shot guns a few years back, i could check with mr.ROCK if you want? i've got two sets of adj. off of some target pistol bl.'s, so i know they make them ,but they are drill /tap jobs . whose your best local gunsmith?

thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hi Brass Hammer,

I could have Bo-Mars installed any time I want. Thats what the other 45's wear. I kinda want to do it myself. A fixed sight would be great if I could file it down.

Thank you for thinking of me.

RIKA :)
 

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I was going to suggest the MMC low-mount Tac.Carry but they require machining as well on a 1911 and though they adjust for elevation they are only windage adjustable by drifting.

What I do like about them is the rear blade is protectec by "ears" like some of the S&W auto sights but still streamlined; eventually I intend to put then on my Glock 34's along with steel front sights.
 

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It's not a big deal to install Bomars with just bench grinder, files, Dremel, dial caliper,magic marker.I've done so several times. First the top rear of the slide has to be lowered, far enough to let the bottom of the dovetail on the sight just "clear" the firing pin channel, altho cutting into said channel doesn't really do any harm. You want the front sight to be high enough to be seen quickly, but low enough to work in a holster. You also want the rear sight installed at a height that pretty gives you a fair range of movement in the vertical plain, but in truth nearly all of that will be in RAISING the rear sight, given the propensity of slow, heavy slugs to "fall off" rather quickly, due to gravity. :) Use the caliper to measure both from the rear of the slide, and from the bottom, to get the top plane at 90 degree angles. Best check to make sure that the rear of the slide IS at a 90 degree angle to the sides of the slide, first, of course. Such is not always the case, to the tune of .020" or more. Do not QUITE take the top plane down "low enough" As you drift in the sight, being VERY careful to notice that it's LEVEL with the slide, you can always use the layout blue and file to remove abit more metal from top plane of the slide, under the body of the sight. Light will shine thru a VERY small gap, and it is the mark of the hack job.

Don't QUITE take the cut of the top plane far enough forward. It's hard to judge this properly, by "eyeball", and an unsightly gap will require both Tig Welding and refinishing the slide. You can always move the "line" of the top plane forward a bit, as you drift in the sight from the side, and you see that you need to do so.

Next, cut a "square" channel where the top of the sight's dovetail will go, and leave it not quite wide enough at the top, and cut it pretty close to square, as a vertical milling machine would cut it Leave it about .020" too narrow, and about .020" to shallow, too. Use the Dremel and 2-3 cutoff disks(on the mandrel at once,one shatters too easily, wear your goggles.Dont let the Dremel burn your clothing, wear an apron. Dont let it catch long hair, either. :) to make this cut. Use the caliper to check this channel's squareness, with both the rear and bottom of the slide(both sides, now.)

This is now where it can get dicey. I suggest that you rest overnight at this point, or at least, several hours. You need pretty fair light, nice solid bench and vise, and a lot of patience. the finalizing of the dovetail cut will take at least an hour, maybe 2-3 for a beginner, being adquately careful. Put either 2 of the 36pc to the container cuttoff wheels on the mandrel,or one of the 20 pc to the container "heavy duty" cut off wheels on the mandrel. Stay away from both the top and bottom corners of the square cut, and start making the 60 degree angle cut for the sight's dove tail. I suggest that you get one side very close to fitting, then use magic marker or Dyekem layout blue to show you what's what. Grind one side of a 3 cornered file "safe' on the bench grinder. Use a wire brush to keep the filings out of the file teeth.

If you aint got a speed control for your Dremel, best get one, it about doubles the utility of the Dremel for smithing, lets you do many things quickly and easily,where you'd otherwise have to take 10x as long to do something with a file. The mark of the master is knowing when and where to "hog off' metal, and when and where to proceed slowly, taking frequent breaks, THINKING about what you've done and intend to do. MEASURE AND CHECK OFTEN, before a bad cut gets too far out of hand to correct.

When you are finalizing the bottom corners of the dovetail,you need to use ONE of the thin type of cutoff wheel, and then the file. do NOT make yourself do much filing at ALL. It's way too tiring and frustrating, tending to make you careless as you get fatiqued. Instead,turn down the speed on the Dremel more, use the caliper and layout blue to CHECK more. This is especially true as you almost finalize the drifting of the sight fully into the slide.

When you can "start" the sight dovetail into the slide cut about full width and height on one side,MEASURE the top and bottom of the rear of the dovetail slot, Both of the slot itself and the distances from the bottom and rearof the slide, and RECORD that measurement, and start again on the other side. KEEP measuring carefully and frequently as you remove enough metal to let the other end of the sight's dovetail to start it to full depth in the this "other" (second) side of the slide. Do NOT trust either your memory about the numbers, OR your "eye" to get this correct. MEASURE, CHECK the numbers. This is where you can easily end up with the sight being crooked in the slide, either front to back, or top to bottom.

If the caliper shows all is well, now you can begin removing metal in the center of the dovetail. It's best to measure the sight's dovetail,(both at the top and bottom)make sure that if ANY taper is present, that you drift the sight into the slide in the appropriate direction, and that you cut the slide accordingly.

Be aware that as you drift the sight in and out of the slide dovetail, using your hunk of nylon rod, that you can easily be distorting the sight, especially the dovetail. The layout blue or magic ink will show you where to remove metal. It's best to smear on a bit of Loctite for the final installation, and to drill and tap the slide for the retaining setscrew. One type of Bomar has you tap the slide for the elevation screw,the other has that screw self contained in the sight.

Round off those sharp corners on the Bomar, so as to spare your hand, ribs, clothing from being gouged-ripped. Be careful to taper these cuts to the front, so there's no glare from them, towards the rear of the gun. If you hot -blue the sight, remember to disassembleit and remove the springs. Hot blue can hurt their temper, and the salts will crud up any small,articulating areas-parts. Sometimes rust will form there, because the salts were not adquately "killed' in the rinse part of the blueing process.
 

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I've owned 2 Gov't Models with Witchita's on them, I prefer them vastly over Bo Mars.
 

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Rika, here's a pic of my M1911A1. The sights are Millet. I had them installed in 1989. The rear is adjustable but this weapon has been through a lot and the Millets have proven extremely tough. It's been my experience that tritiums are a tad fragile for what a pistol that's carried a lot in the field goes through. The front outine is orange and the rear is white. I've found this setup to work well. You'll notice that the slide was stepped so the sights could be installed with a low profile.

The trigger is a Kings match grade, the grips are Houge, gave it a ramp job. The mags are 8 round Chip McCormick. The weapon was scuffed up on the outside when I got it so I had it bead blasted and re-blued. The recoil spring that came with the weapon is one of the strongest recoil springs I've ever felt in an M1911.


 

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Oh yes he's really ignoring what we post ain't, how true to his word.

And yes I agree, Garand does not have what it takes to be a child abusing doper like JMD.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I will be checking out those adjustable sights in the Brownells catalog this afternoon. Mike R., what is the brand of dagger in the pic above your 45?

Thanks guys!

RIKA (on ignore) :)
 

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<font color=red>*</font><font color=red>*</font><font color=red>*</font><font color=red>*</font><font color=red>*</font> aint even got speed lever or ducktail grip safety. SOFT rubber grips "wear loose" on front strap in a mere hundred hours of handling. I wore out TWO Pachmahr grip sets, one on my .45, one on the 22 unit's frame, in ONE year.

Finger grooves on front straps are in invitation to getting a bad grip, during a fast draw. small safety levers require you to SHIFT your grip back into a firing grasp, after attaining a proper grasp for manipulating the safety. It can be done, but only a fool handicaps himself in that fashion.

The ducktail tang grip safety sheilds the hammer from blows, or "snags' during a fast draw. It protects your hand from being cut during a fast draw, and it "guides" your hand into a proper firing grip on the gun, especially during a ccw draw, under great stress. Along with undercutting the trigger guard-front strap a bit, the ducktail lets you take a 1/4"-3/8" higher grasp on the gun, which aids in recoil control. Your gun shows your lack of knowledge about such things.
 

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Thanks Todd, I appreciate that vote of confidence. Geez gunkid, I have some very positive experiences with Witchita's, personal preference. Those of us that own modified 1911's have done so to suit are own tastes, not yours. If we are comfortable with them why should it bother you? You never know, some of us just might be more experienced than you are.

Melvin please post all your IPSC scores in the last 24 months with independent verification and please supply a DETAIL kit list for your BOB.
 

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223 fan said:
Your gun shows your lack of knowledge about such things.
Oh, I know all about these things. I've added what needed to be added.

Your statement shows a lack of experience off of the shooting range. It also shows that you are out of touch with modern times, such as with the grip issue. That weapon has been up mountains, in blizzards, in swamps, in deserts, in the rain, etc.

Your statement also shows a lack of practical experience at ccw. All of that <font color=red>*</font><font color=red>*</font><font color=red>*</font><font color=red>*</font> that claim is so necessary looks good on the range and the range gurus recommend them, but they are not absolutely necessary.

Gimmicks don't make the shooter or the pistol.

Claiming that such minor add-ons make the difference between life and death is nonsense.

223 fan said:
aint even got speed lever or ducktail grip safety.
So what? THAT statement right there, acting as if those are all important, shows that your knowledge and experience stops at the back cover of Guns & Ammo.

All of that sh^t sticking out can snag and catch on stuff. The levers that came with the weapon are just fine.

The safety, for instance, I've never had a problem with, slide release also.

Beaver tails are OK but I've never needed one. Had one on a Springfield and the extra benefit is moot.

223 fan said:
Along with undercutting the trigger guard-front strap a bit, the ducktail lets you take a 1/4"-3/8" higher grasp on the gun, which aids in recoil control.
The weapon fits my hand perfectly as is.

223 fan said:
Finger grooves on front straps are in invitation to getting a bad grip, during a fast draw.
Actually they are an aid. I grip my weapon in the exact same manner and place everytime. They are also very comfortable.

Sounds like you've never had to grab a pistol when it was pitch dark or grab it when you, it, and everything else was wet.

223 fan said:
SOFT rubber grips "wear loose" on front strap in a mere hundred hours of handling. I wore out TWO Pachmahr grip sets, one on my .45, one on the 22 unit's frame, in ONE year.
Those grips have been on that gun and in CONSTANT use since 1989. They show wear but they are still tight. Houges smoke Pachmahr.

This isn't the 1970's, gear has gotten better.
 

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Raider said:
Mike R., what is the brand of dagger in the pic above your 45?
RIKA (on ignore) :)


Rika, I accidentally deleted the pic earlier.

The dagger is a Camillus 'boot knife'. They make a medium and a large. That is the large with a 4-1/4" blade, 8-5/8" overall. I highly recommend getting the kydex sheath with it. It's a really nice knife and not that expensive. The blade is very flat and relatively thin at 3/32" thickness but with a strong handle. The design of this little knife is excellent for both slicing and stabbing. It lives on my LBV as both a utility knife and an "oh sh^t" backup weapon.
 

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223 fan said:
says WHO, bozo? :) And if I HADN'T, garnad NEVER has, and never will, either. He aint got what it takes.
I see you're a little touchy tonight MELVIN, you should take a little extra of the med's and hit the sacak early, so you can give it hell tomorrow.

nighty-night MELVIN :laugh01: :laugh01: :laugh01:
 

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223 fan said:
says WHO, bozo? :) And if I HADN'T, garnad NEVER has, and never will, either. He aint got what it takes.
I see you're a little touchy tonight MELVIN, you should take a little extra of your med's and hit the sack early, so you can give it hell tomorrow.

nighty-night MELVIN :laugh01: :laugh01: :laugh01:
 
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