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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
barrel, from receiver, without letting anyone else see the gun, without having access to machine tools yourself. What you do is arrange for a shrink-fit for a threaded adapter on the barrel. It requires measurement of the OD of the barrel and 1" back from muzzle, to the .0001".
 

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That's nice.

Of course evil features are ok again, including threaded barrels, bayonnet lugs, and flash hiders. Which begs the question about why we would be afraid of anyone seeing the gun?

:devil:
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
removing the barrel, replacing it, etc, requires barrel vise, action wrench, go and no go headspace guages, about $350 worth of stuff. Having a threaded adapter costs a lot, but not that much. It has to be precision bored and honed, to be within Plus or minus .005" (half a thouandth of an inch) of the specs given The spec is .001" SMALLER than the OD of the barrel (and matching the taper of the barrel) Make it out of a 7/8x14 bolt, 1" long, and have the empty thread groove machined on it, right in front of the bolt head, before you fit it to the barrel. Freeze the barrel with squirts of butane, or put it in the freezer. Heat the threaded adapter with a torch, to be red hot. The barrel will have shrunk .001" in OD, the adapter will have expanded .004" or more. Tap the adapter onto the barrel with a mallet, and let the temp normalize. Presto, threaded adapter is press fit onto muzzle.

Slug the bore and measure it, before and after installation, to ensure no constriction of the barrel exists. If it does exist, cast a lead lap in the bore, around a bronze bristle bore brush, while heating the OD of the barrel mildly (propane torch) use the cleaning rod to push the lap almost out of the bore, smear on some fine Cloverleaf valve grinding compound (auto parts-supply store) and use the lap and rod to remove the constriction ,Mark the lap and the barrel. You are not supposed to ever let the lap get all the way out of the muzzle, before you're done, but shit happens. A wad of tape, in the right place around the rod, wont let you run the lap too far out of the muzzle.
 

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Thats nice! But who cares?
 

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I see andy. Once its lapped you've got it licked. I will treasure this knowldege forever (NOT!).

RIKA
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
you can't name a single thing that I've talked about that can't be done, 95% of it I HAVE done, and 90% of it I can do right NOW. :)
 

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CowardKid said:
It has to be precision bored and honed, to be within Plus or minus .005" (half a thouandth of an inch)
+/- .005" is FIVE THOUSANDS of an inch. A machinist would have a hard time boring something that inaccurately. Hell, I can drive a bus through +/- .005"
 

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Whether its possible or not, belongs in the gunsmithing section.

Learn to read andy.
 

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Cool andy now we have two more posts to send to mike fisher you PO.

BTW probably the only thing you would ever be good at lapping is at teh fet of the woman who keeps you or the corn out of my ass.
 

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NUTTY SCARECROW said:
It has to be precision bored and honed, to be within Plus or minus .005" (half a thouandth of an inch) of the specs given The spec is .001" SMALLER than the OD of the barrel (and matching the taper of the barrel)
TARD, .005, is five (5) thousands of an inch, not a half a thousandth.

Too bad you are so dense, when it comes to simple arithmatic ...
 

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Coyote said:
Why ruin a nice lee enfield?
Because he's a douche-bag. He's also a limp-wrister who can't handle any recoil above that of a .22 without a massive flinch, nor can he handle loud noises without getting scared and peeing his pants.
 

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Hasher said:
Andy color codes his pants?

(Yellow in front brown in back)
Damn Hasher, if the NUTTY OUTHOUSE SCARECROW didn't color code his pants, he would never get dressed properly ...
 
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