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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
:) That[s why they THINK that their gun is ok. Ask Jerry mikulek how often his smiths sneak back to the factory (if he'll tell you the TRUTH, that is. ) He probably has a dozen of them on hand, and a dozen more at the factory.
 

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andy said:
:) That[s why they THINK that their gun is ok. Ask Jerry mikulek how often his smiths sneak back to the factory (if he'll tell you the TRUTH, that is. ) He probably has a dozen of them on hand, and a dozen more at the factory.
How would you know that, NUTTY JOHN?

Post your facts Scarecrow, or shut up ...

Even if he did have his guns going back and forth to the factory, he legally owns them because of his citizenship. He isn't a damned exconvict, on parole, like you are.

Your abject jealousy is showing TARD, he does things that you can only dream and fantisize about, because he's a citizen with an umblemished record.
 

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Gee, I use to just check for end play in the cylinder,or side-to side looseness.That would have been before firing the piece and noticing(painfully!)the lead splatter,shaving etc.All the more reason to never do the Hollywood @sshole thing where the wheelgunner flipsthe cylnder open& shut with a shake of the wrist.MAN that can seriously bend cranes out of alignment.
Another reason to wear them in rather than wear them out.Or let Bubba have at it for some special-ed.customizing.
 

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how would stupekid know? He is a SA Star POS Bowl Movement fan. He as admitted he can't hit shit past short range and has little skill at other arms.
 

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funny i always thought when a wheel gun went out of time it just couldn't hold a tune. if we are all so in need of enlightenment instead of taunting us with your knowledge. why don't you explain it there by giving those that are too shy to ask the information they crave.

sean
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The thing may never have been IN time, actually, or could have had one or more chambers drilled crookedly in the cylinder. If that part was ok, then the first thing to go is hand-wear, then ejector star, then cylinder bolt, then the bolt slots in the cycinder. If end shake or a split forcing cone didn't happen first (which is higly likely with lots of magnum loads.
 

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i agree with the wear patterns though i have never had the pleasure of seeing a split or cracked forcing cone (some of mine are merely eroded lol)

would you be willing to give us a step by step on the way to check these?
suck as how to tell if the ejector is worn, or the hand has worn beyond spec ect.
sean
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
First thing is to bring a bit of friction against the side of cylinder, with a bit of pressure from a finger slowly thumb cock the hammer. After full cocked, try to rotate the cylinder further, by hand. If it moves even a little bit further, you have wear, and it's usually in the hand. It's usually fixable with a bit of heat and some peening of the front end of the hand. The other stuff is harder to diagnose, need a range-rod, basically, and even then, you are just guessing, in many cases.
 

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So whats this "range rod", I'm here to learn, please tell me what it is. I've never heard of it before?
 

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andy said:
First thing is to bring a bit of friction against the side of cylinder, with a bit of pressure from a finger slowly thumb cock the hammer. After full cocked, try to rotate the cylinder further, by hand. If it moves even a little bit further, you have wear, and it's usually in the hand. It's usually fixable with a bit of heat and some peening of the front end of the hand. The other stuff is harder to diagnose, need a range-rod, basically, and even then, you are just guessing, in many cases.
If you are talking about S&W revolvers, you're completely wrong about how to go about checking cylinder play.

To put it into full lock up you must pull the trigger, slowly letting the hammer down rather than letting it snap shows the current owner that you respect his gun, and HOLD the trigger back, then and only then can you check for cylinder play.
 

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Actually tard is correct on how to see of it is out of time. That is the same method I learne dfrom Ron Power. A range rod is basicly a land diamenter rod that you can drop down the bore. Should just be a slip fit. If it hits the cylinder face and does not enter the cylinder then you also have alingment problems.
 
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