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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
amount to much when using the gun swiftly,from the leather. 20 LPI checkering matches them, but weakens the frame a lot, especially where it's beveled for fast mag swaps. So it's best to just peen the serretatins flat, and then stipple the front strap. The mainspring housing will benefit from a 20 LPI checkering. It's just serrated vertically, so it has little "holding power" vertically, as in recoil control when your hands are sweaty, bloody, numb with cold, etc.
 

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"So it's best to just peen the serretatins flat, and then stipple the front strap.

Spoken like a true gunbutcher. Peen 'em flat my @ss.

RIKA
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
says a dumb <font color=red>[**censored**]</font> who has no IDEA

of what's what. I've seen MANY a 1911 frame cracked at its bottom front because 20LPI checkering cut too deeply, and the Gold Cup's serrations are too coarse for mating to 30 LPI worth a hoot. It's bozos like you who DO cut the front strap with 20LPI checkering who are the butchers. Stippling is far more efficient as a gripping surface,without tearing up your hand.
 

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So is skateboard tape but checkering is sooo classy. If done properly and not by a heavy handed goon there is no danger of anything cracking.

RIKA
 

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Come on Tard, how do you do it?

I know, I've got a trade mark pattern for checkering. I've done quite a few number of guns by hand. Please, tell us how you do it. Describe the stippling technique.

Mike
 

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Checkering 1911 fron straps ...

I have 13 1911 pistols, four of which are GOLD CUPS, all are checkered. The stippled front straps, that I have seen, look like a butcher was working on them.

Sooo, I win, you loose -- big time.

Bill
 

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Hard Rock said:
Come on Tard, how do you do it?

I know, I've got a trade mark pattern for checkering. I've done quite a few number of guns by hand. Please, tell us how you do it. Describe the stippling technique.

Mike
Hard Rock, he probably used a checkering device. He could never get good enough to do the checkering free hand.

Bill
 

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223 fan said:
of what's what. I've seen MANY a 1911 frame cracked at its bottom front because 20LPI checkering cut too deeply, and the Gold Cup's serrations are too coarse for mating to 30 LPI worth a hoot. It's bozos like you who DO cut the front strap with 20LPI checkering who are the butchers. Stippling is far more efficient as a gripping surface,without tearing up your hand.
The truth is exactly the opposite from what you are saying. Any fool should know that.

You loose, I win again for being right.
 

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so you worry about LOOKS? If that's a big deal, run a Tig bead down the 2 outside serrations. They are the only ones that can't be completely hidden by the stippling. I always used an air chisel for most of the stippling, filling in around the edges with the hand powered tool. Then use a knife edged file to make a neat border around it all, using the "plates" that protect the grip screw bushings as a guideline for the file. The fact that you have lots of <font color=red>*</font><font color=red>*</font><font color=red>*</font><font color=red>*</font>ed up guns doesn't mean squat.
 

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223 fan said:
so you worry about LOOKS? Dumbass. If that's a big deal, run a Tig bead down the 2 outside serrations. They are the only ones that can't be completely hidden by the stippling. I always used an air chisel for most of the stippling, filling in around the edges with the hand powered tool. Then use a knife edged file to make a neat border around it all, using the "plates" that protect the grip screw bushings as a guideline for the file. The fact that you have lots of <font color=red>*</font><font color=red>*</font><font color=red>*</font><font color=red>*</font>ed up guns doesn't mean squat.
Nope, I just don't believe you, and what you say about stippling vs. checkering is complete Bull Squat. Neither checkering or stippling, when done properly, damage the frame of a 1911. You lose, I win.

Are you trying to say that you're a better gunsmith than Jim Hoag, or some of the other master gunsmiths, working in the field?

Bill
 
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