[andy]

amount to much when using the gun swiftly,from the leather. 20 LPI checkering matches them, but weakens the frame a lot, especially where it's beveled for fast mag swaps. So it's best to just peen the serretatins flat, and then stipple the front strap. The mainspring housing will benefit from a 20 LPI checkering. It's just serrated vertically, so it has little "holding power" vertically, as in recoil control when your hands are sweaty, bloody, numb with cold, etc.

 

[andy]

says a dumb <font color=red>[**censored**]</font> who has no IDEA

of what's what. I've seen MANY a 1911 frame cracked at its bottom front because 20LPI checkering cut too deeply, and the Gold Cup's serrations are too coarse for mating to 30 LPI worth a hoot. It's bozos like you who DO cut the front strap with 20LPI checkering who are the butchers. Stippling is far more efficient as a gripping surface,without tearing up your hand.

 

[andy]

so you worry about LOOKS? If that's a big deal, run a Tig bead down the 2 outside serrations. They are the only ones that can't be completely hidden by the stippling. I always used an air chisel for most of the stippling, filling in around the edges with the hand powered tool. Then use a knife edged file to make a neat border around it all, using the "plates" that protect the grip screw bushings as a guideline for the file. The fact that you have lots of <font color=red>*</font><font color=red>*</font><font color=red>*</font><font color=red>*</font>ed up guns doesn't mean squat.