Hard Rock, he probably used a checkering device. He could never get good enough to do the checkering free hand.Hard Rock said:Come on Tard, how do you do it?
I know, I've got a trade mark pattern for checkering. I've done quite a few number of guns by hand. Please, tell us how you do it. Describe the stippling technique.
Mike
The truth is exactly the opposite from what you are saying. Any fool should know that.223 fan said:of what's what. I've seen MANY a 1911 frame cracked at its bottom front because 20LPI checkering cut too deeply, and the Gold Cup's serrations are too coarse for mating to 30 LPI worth a hoot. It's bozos like you who DO cut the front strap with 20LPI checkering who are the butchers. Stippling is far more efficient as a gripping surface,without tearing up your hand.
Nope, I just don't believe you, and what you say about stippling vs. checkering is complete Bull Squat. Neither checkering or stippling, when done properly, damage the frame of a 1911. You lose, I win.223 fan said:so you worry about LOOKS? Dumbass. If that's a big deal, run a Tig bead down the 2 outside serrations. They are the only ones that can't be completely hidden by the stippling. I always used an air chisel for most of the stippling, filling in around the edges with the hand powered tool. Then use a knife edged file to make a neat border around it all, using the "plates" that protect the grip screw bushings as a guideline for the file. The fact that you have lots of <font color=red>*</font><font color=red>*</font><font color=red>*</font><font color=red>*</font>ed up guns doesn't mean squat.
