It's easier to clean carbon fouling. Cleaning the moly out is the fun part.I haven't used moly bullets but I have heard that it is easier to clean the barrel after using them. If you are breaking in a barrel I definitely wouldn't recommend moly. If not I don't think it would hurt to try it and see.
2005 600-Yard IBS Shooter of the Year had to say about moly removal:
"I use moly and clean every two matches. I don't brush much, and if I do, I normally use nylon brushes."
Since I shoot moly, my cleaning procedure is different than you'd use with naked bullets. I went to moly so I wouldn't have to clean during matches. Now I'll clean every two matches--about every 80 rounds. Here's the procedure: I put a patch of Kroil through the barrel, then wet another patch with Kroil, stroke it pretty good, then I dry patch it. Next I run a couple Montana X-Treme 50 BMG wet patches and I let that set for 5-10 minutes, then dry-patch the 50 BMG out. Then I put a little JB on a dry patch on a jag, and short-stroke about 6-8 inches of the throat area for about a dozen strokes. After that I push another Kroil-wetted patch through again, and then wet/dry patch to remove the JB residue. The last step is to run a patch with Kroil.
This complicated process gets the barrel clean but I've found it may take a dozen or more shots to get the moly back in again so the gun shoots optimally. If somebody has a better/faster way to clean for moly bullets, that doesn't require so many fouling shots, I'm all ears. I generally don't use brushes, but when I do, I'll use nylon brushes (except in rare situations where I really need to attack carbon in the throat). Bill Shehane was the one who suggested I use the nylon. With a nylon brush I will send the brush all the way out the muzzle and draw it back in again. With a fairly loose-fitting nylon brush I can short-stroke the throat area (you can feel it if it's getting rough), but generally that's not necessary, and, as explained above, I can accomplish my cleaning with patches.
Taken from 6mmBR.com. Hope this helps. Art
I agree, I tried it once, that was enough.In short:
Molly is a gimmick. In theory it lubricates the bullet so that higher velocities are attainable at less pressure; in practice the gains are very small and the side-effects terrible. If seated optimally in your barrel, usually far past regular cartridge OAL, the slightly reduced friction may enable you to safely work up 50 more FPS than you would have been able to otherwise. In exchange, you gunk up your barrel faster and switching back to uncoated bullets is usually a PITA. Cleaning is also complicated. Some barrels also hate molly (Rock Creek, Walther Lothar, and Obermeyer for example have disclaimers saying molly will ruin em and void any guarantees and warranties), and many builders will tell you if you shoot molly you're stuck with molly.
I'm very curious as to the hBN figures and the process you used on the bores.So, do we do Moly? :laugh: Yes!... but on one rifle. Every other rifle in the armoury had had it's bore hBN permeated and every bullet here that goes downrange is hBN impact coated. The purpose of both processes is bore longevity, and if you like I can get those figures on Moly for the three current load data test rifles belonging to the builder. We have the hBN figures here.
I'm very curious as to the hBN figures and the process you used on the bores.
As for the comments on the rifle, I honestly think you've (as well as many others) been had but if you're a satisfied customer then thats what ultimately counts. Your brother and I briefly had a chat on here about it but he abruptly left and I couldn't help but feel as if the discourse somehow irritated him, which was not my intent.