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Discussion Starter #1
OK, I read the article in VHP magazine about their comparison shoots with the various muzzle brakes. It looks like top dog is the Armalite model, but honestly, I really don't like the looks of it at all. But I'm not going to let that get in the way if it is the *best* one out there. I guess the important question I need to ask is whether or not this brake uses the same thread as my Barrett models.

So is this one far and above better than the Barrett models? Is there another one that is close to the Armalite, much better than the Barretts, and will thread onto my barrels?

Or is the difference so small that it really isn't going to make all that much difference either way?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Heck, I heard (not sure of the source, though) that the suppressor that Barrett supplies (supplied?) does not act at all as a muzzle brake. Is this something different?

I may have to look into that. But heck, seems unnatural to even think of a suppressor for a .50BMG. :eek:
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Looks like the price on the suppressor is $1550. Plus I would have the $200 tax stamp.

That good, huh?
 

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Besides,it's only money.
Maybe label some of those corns as "possible het for piebald" or "possible het for tiger/sunburst/etc." @ the next show.:D
Should be able to come up with the $$$ for 3 suppressors in a cinch.:laugh:
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I have to confess that this interests me. But even thinking "suppressor for a .50 BMG" makes me want to chuckle for some reason. Just seems so darned illogical.

But heck, if it works, why not? Putting on earmuffs over top of earplugs is a pita. And getting pounded, even though it only kicks as bad as a 12 gauge, gets old after a short while. Of course, the back blast DOES help clear out my sinuses....

But I think I wouldn't be able to use the unit on my M82A1. I suspect that if it reduces the recoil that significantly, it may not work the action on the semiauto.

Hey Hard Rock, what's the hassle factor like on getting a suppressor? I got a DD for my StreetSweeper a while back, but this isn't something I have had all that much interest in, so I don't know the ropes. Since a suppressor is NOT a firearm, do I need to go through a local FFL? There is an outfit local here that does suppressors for Ruger 10/22s and such who may be at the show here this upcoming weekend. I may have to talk with them a bit.

Is there any advantage to getting two at the same time? I figure both my model 99 and model 95 would be candidates for these puppies.

Sheesh! I wonder if I'll be able to fit those things into my vaults with the suppressors attached?

Yeah, I guess maybe I could label some of my corns at the upcoming Daytona Beach show as being het for the latest craze in ball pythons. That's about the only way I would get *real* money for a corn snake. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #9
How robust are those suppressors? The reason I ask is because I have heard accounts of blue tip incendiary rounds as well as the spotter/tracer rounds touching off right at the end of the barrel. Not very often, but enough to be a possible concern.

Probably would make a mess of the inside of a suppressor if that happened, I think.

Just how exactly do those things work to control recoil? Doesn't there have to be some way of venting the gases to act against the rearward motion of the gun during recoil?

Darn, this has gotten me interested!
 

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It's the same process as a DD... fingerprints, photo, sheriff sign off, and wait.

I wouldn't shoot the blue tip or API through the can for several reasons. One being as you mention that blue tip can sometimes blow at the muzzle. Another is a stability issue. You want to avoid baffle strikes.

I've never shot a can on the 82 series so I couldn't tell you but I know that on the McMillian and the Grizzly it works great.

Now, for how it works... Inside a suppressor is a stack of baffles. What happens is that the gasses impact the baffles pulling the gun forward cancelling out much of the recoil. Why it is so efficient is that the gasses are ported along the baffle series to vent in the front at a lower velocity. So basically, instead of a moderate percentage of the gasses striking the brake, you have almost 99% of the gasses interacting directly with the baffles.

The effectiveness of the suppressor is in direct relation to the baffle structure regarding recoil suppression. Bear that in mind.

Oh yeah, you think a .50 BMG suppressor is out there. I got a buddy who has a 20mm suppressor that is 4 inches in diameter and nearly 20 inches long.

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Oh yeah, you think a .50 BMG suppressor is out there. I got a buddy who has a 20mm suppressor that is 4 inches in diameter and nearly 20 inches long.
Man, I hope you own a camera! Would love to see that beast!

Well, from what you have told me, I think one of these cans for my Model 95 may be the ticket. I will probably leave the regular brakes on my Models 99 and M82. I do like shooting the blue tips and spotter/tracers, so I will do that with my M99.

The M95 is much lighter than the other two, so I think this would be the best bet for a suppressor. Ashamed to say it, but I STILL haven't shot that M95 and I've had it over a year now. Put a Nightforce scope on it and REALLY need to sight it in.

Maybe if I start now on the process on the suppressor I could have it in the winter months when my busy season has passed. What are we talking, 90 days or more for the process?

I guess I need a local Class III for this, huh?
 

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LOL... I'll see if I can get a video of that... it's impressive.

The barrett brakes should use the same threading between guns. You will be able to mount the can on any of them. My suggestion is to try it out on the 82 and see if it works.

It'll take 90 days plus however long it takes to have AWC make the can, form 3 it to your dealer, the LEO sign off.

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I'm going to print out that page and take it to the local gun show this weekend hoping that Class II guy is there. Maybe even get this ball rolling this weekend. Guess I'd better see how many pennies I can scrape together.....

I guess the local sheriff will sign off on it. Didn't have any problems with my StreetSweeper a while back.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Another is a stability issue. You want to avoid baffle strikes.
Curious about this warning. Are military pulled projectiles in general a no-no with this thing?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Rats! The guy with the suppressor stuff wasn't at the gun show here this weekend. I hope I can find his card so I can ask him about this new toy.

Oh well. Didn't buy anything there anyway, figuring I should save my pennies for this suppressor.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Well, I've been passing a few emails back and forth with the local Class II guy who will do a suppressor transfer for me. He claims that I will need to send the rifle to AWC so they can align the can with the barrel. This seems to indicate to me that I won't be able to use one can on a couple of different rifles. Haven't heard back from AWC about this, but the local guy claims he has one can coming into the shop for another customer where this is the procedure they used.

Shoot, not sure I really want to send my 95 off for this...... :(

Hard Rock, was that the procedure for your MacMillian and Grizzly?
 

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Oh yeah, you think a .50 BMG suppressor is out there. I got a buddy who has a 20mm suppressor that is 4 inches in diameter and nearly 20 inches long.
This sort of caught my attention...do you mean that your friend has a 20mm rifle? Isn't that a "destructive device?" :eek:

Sorry to hijack, but what do you have to go through to own a "suppressed destructive device?" And where do you find the ammo?
 

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Ok... several posts... here are the answers I have...

Depending on the twist rate of the barrel, you will get different violent transitions for different bullet weights. This results in a yaw in the bullet as it leaves the muzzle until it stabilizes. The more concentrically uniform the bullet is, the less it yaws. The easy way to tell is to shoot targets with various rounds at 100 yards. If your rifle can't keep the bullets in a 5 inch circle unsuppressed at 100, you may get baffle strikes.

Sending the rifle to AWC... I would send it out just to be sure but it isn't absolutely necessary. The thing about sending it out is that you are covered under warranty then. Personally, I'd do it with all the rifles you want to put the can on.
I sent the Grizzly out to AWC because I wanted them to check a few other things on the gun. The Boomer 50 I bought the can and threw it on... no problem... didn't send the gun out.

Yes, the 20mm is a destructive device. Check with state and local law on legality but it falls under the same heading as a machine gun. The suppressor is just like any other suppressor.. it in itself does not constitute a destructive device. Ammo can be a problem depending on caliber. If you own a 20x138b expect to pay $40+ per round. There are some 20mm cartridges available that are common such as the 20x102 vulcan. Many people convert their guns to this round for availability. Now, unless the ammunition has a warhead, it does not fall under DD registration requirements. You can buy it like any other round. I get mine from www.bigskysurplus.com for most applications. If you do get HE rounds, you have to pay the $200 tax on each.

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Thanks for the reply.

Honestly, the wrinkle of sending my guns off to Arizona is giving me cold feet on the entire idea, though. I just hate to entrust my guns to UPS unless I absolutely have to.

Oh well, guess I have to think on it a bit.

Thanks.
 

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DON'T SEND BY UPS!!!! Those punks ruined an irreplacable gun that was being shipped to a local dealer here. They also broke some stuff I had shipped to me from Tennesee last year. Never send anything you value by UPS. Spend the extra money and ship by Fed Ex. That is the company that AWC uses exclusively for shipping.

Unlike UPS, Fed Ex will stand behind their claims and pay for stuff they break. Trust me, I know about this first hand. They replaced a trigger that they broke during transit. We didn't even have to file a claim, they took the initiative and called to apologize and make arrangements to fix the damage. You'll be fine with Fed Ex.

Mike
 
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