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concealable enough for efficient shtf use. Nothing can be done about its lack of a .22 unit. You MUST have .004" of clearance in the bore, for the .22lr barrel liner. That means an OD for the 6" of barrel having an OD of .296', because it must be a slip fit in the LANDS, not the grooves of the 308. The .308 rifling grooves are .004" deep, and you have to DOUBLE that when calculating the true ID of the bore. The rifling grooves of the .22 bore are .223" across. Subtact that from .296" and you get .084", and divide that in half. you get a wall thickness of .042", which means that the .22 unit is VERY fragile when it's not in the gun. It has to be carried in a METAL case in order to prevent its being dented or bent. Futhermore, the 308 chamber and rear of barrel MUST be free of fouling when the .22 unit is inserted, or you WONT get it out of the gun again,without a lot of hassle. That is, IF you actually get it fully inserted into the (fouled) 308 chamber in the first place. The 308 autorifle's .22 units ALSO have to be CAREFULLY reinserted into the EXACT same place, (clock face orientation) or the POI of the bullets on the target will be WAY off from where they were the last time you used it. So the 308's .22 units are a JOKE.

In order to be effecitive with full charge 308 ammo, the can has to be SO huge and heavy that it RUINS the rifle for anything but bipod use. So the 308 users end up needing MORE ammo,taking MORE risks,because they lack a can and .22 unit. So they start with a rifle and mags andammo that weigh TWICE as much as .223 and .22 unit and ammo, and they need MORE such ammo, and then they are a LOT less likely to replace it as is the guy with 223-22 unit. 80 rds of 223 and200 rds of 22lr TOTAL 3.5 lbs. 180rds of 308 totals 10 lbs, and 4 spare mags add another 2 lbs. The 308 can is at LEAST 1.5 lbs,many are 2 lbs.

for the 308 to have ANY more "reach" than 223,it HAS to be a heavy barreled,MIA, and the M1A's scope mount is a sloppy affair,being a "T" slot cut into the receiver. The mount MUST be made of steel,or it's QUICKLY ruined with a few removals andreplacements. Scopes are pretty worthless at night,or in thick cover,and the M1A is NOT concealable, like the disassembled 10" CAR is,either. u get SEEN with a rifle, in many conditions, and it will mean your DEATH,or enslavement.
 

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Only you require a "can" to overcome your inadequacy, the rest of use have skill and knowledge to get us through if the balloon ever goes up.
 

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Rule 1

Keep it simple, reliable, and rugged.

GK, you rely too much on whiz bang gadgetry. Your gear setup is too inherently prone to failure. It relies upon too many components to all you want it to do.

Your setup is also a relatively short range one, no matter how you tweak it. You need to at least ditch the 11.5" barrel.
 

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concealable enough for efficient shtf use. Nothing can be done about its lack of a .22 unit. You MUST have .004" of clearance in the bore, for the .22lr barrel liner. That means an OD for the 6" of barrel having an OD of .296', because it must be a slip fit in the LANDS, not the grooves of the 308. The .308 rifling grooves are .004" deep, and you have to DOUBLE that when calculating the true ID of the bore. The rifling grooves of the .22 bore are .223" across. Subtact that from .296" and you get .084", and divide that in half. you get a wall thickness of .042", which means that the .22 unit is VERY fragile when it's not in the gun. It has to be carried in a METAL case in order to prevent its being dented or bent. Futhermore, the 308 chamber and rear of barrel MUST be free of fouling when the .22 unit is inserted, or you WONT get it out of the gun again,without a lot of hassle. That is, IF you actually get it fully inserted into the (fouled) 308 chamber in the first place. The 308 autorifle's .22 units ALSO have to be CAREFULLY reinserted into the EXACT same place, (clock face orientation) or the POI of the bullets on the target will be WAY off from where they were the last time you used it. So the 308's .22 units are a JOKE.

In order to be effecitive with full charge 308 ammo, the can has to be SO huge and heavy that it RUINS the rifle for anything but bipod use. So the 308 users end up needing MORE ammo,taking MORE risks,because they lack a can and .22 unit. So they start with a rifle and mags andammo that weigh TWICE as much as .223 and .22 unit and ammo, and they need MORE such ammo, and then they are a LOT less likely to replace it as is the guy with 223-22 unit. 80 rds of 223 and200 rds of 22lr TOTAL 3.5 lbs. 180rds of 308 totals 10 lbs, and 4 spare mags add another 2 lbs. The 308 can is at LEAST 1.5 lbs,many are 2 lbs.

for the 308 to have ANY more "reach" than 223,it HAS to be a heavy barreled,MIA, and the M1A's scope mount is a sloppy affair,being a "T" slot cut into the receiver. The mount MUST be made of steel,or it's QUICKLY ruined with a few removals andreplacements. Scopes are pretty worthless at night,or in thick cover,and the M1A is NOT concealable, like the disassembled 10" CAR is,either. u get SEEN with a rifle, in many conditions, and it will mean your DEATH,or enslavement.
your lack of knowledge of suppressors is laughable. My suppressor weighs less than a pound, and my AR-10 will easily out reach your short .223 the suppressor is also full auto rated and can be used on 300 magnums.

please explain the SHTF scenario where appearing to be unarmed won’t get you killed.
neutering your fighting rifle with the .22 unit is your requirement, not necessarily anyone else’s.

if it is SHTF, I will be in full battle rattle. Why not lay out the exact scenario so we can all be on the same page and have an adult discussion - can you even do that?
 

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IGMO take your idea of "It must have a .22unit for SHTF" and stick it where Bubba boned you as it probably will fit.
How much of a candyass are you where a .22lr is needed for combat?
I can see it for arming young children and the older elderly like in their 80's.
But really otherwise?

Your close range sniping at night during your nocturnal e-missions and getting away with it are just that. A wet dream on your part.
 
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