Im new but, I was looking into an olympic arms ar-15 CAR-97. Just wondering what you guys think of these guns as far as reliability and accuracy, also fit and finish quality. these guns retail for 780 and I was wondering what you guys payed for yours so I dont go and pay way too much.. and are they chambered in .223? Thanks in advace.
Olympic Arms AR-15
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800rmk!
I SUFFERED, LIKE YOU!
on buying an olympic[sp] ar15, a few shops were selling their'plinker' model
for right at $600, i looked, waited, looked again, and conversed with some 'in the know ' salesmen, they all said to go a couple of $ more and buy the bushmaster, well i waited and looked ,then finally went to buy the ole' and the shop was sold out[they were flying out the door ! wives buying suprise gifts for husbands] next shipment in a month!
i finally ended up buying the bushmaster for $840[not far , from where your at now]
no more than i shoot mine , it really wouldn't have been much of a difference[to me]
but I do know what i have with the bushmaster[there is a difference]
hope this helped, you, somehow!
thanks.
I SUFFERED, LIKE YOU!
on buying an olympic[sp] ar15, a few shops were selling their'plinker' model
for right at $600, i looked, waited, looked again, and conversed with some 'in the know ' salesmen, they all said to go a couple of $ more and buy the bushmaster, well i waited and looked ,then finally went to buy the ole' and the shop was sold out[they were flying out the door ! wives buying suprise gifts for husbands] next shipment in a month!
i finally ended up buying the bushmaster for $840[not far , from where your at now]
no more than i shoot mine , it really wouldn't have been much of a difference[to me]
but I do know what i have with the bushmaster[there is a difference]
hope this helped, you, somehow!
thanks.
ok thanks btw do you know were olympic arms rifles are made????the problem with buying a bushmaster is that the same type rifle as the car97 retailed for just over 1000 dollars....i would be fine if i knew i could get the bushy for around the 800 dollar mark.....i mean is there anything really not so good about the olympic because a visual look at both and there is no difference between them at all.....??
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i'm sure they are mil-spec
i'm in a fairly good mood this evening, so it's on me!
www.olyarms.com
it doesn't seem to have near the barrel the bushy has!
i'm in a fairly good mood this evening, so it's on me!
www.olyarms.com
it doesn't seem to have near the barrel the bushy has!
A lady of my close acquaintance has an Olympic AR, and it works fine. Cost about $600. What are you trying to achieve with such a rifle? the Colt causes problems, with it's lack of a front push pin, different pin diameters, etc. The Bushy is just overpriced. Take a look at Rock River lowers, on GunsAmerica.com, and Model One Sales parts kits, in ILL. The upper comes assembled, and if you can tie your shoes, you can assemble an AR lower. $600 for the pair.
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as i recollect, the ole'
has NO FORWARD ASSIST, nor, the southpaw brass bumper.
heap big features !
has NO FORWARD ASSIST, nor, the southpaw brass bumper.
heap big features !
Bolt forward assist is almost never needed,and when the bolt doesn't go shut,it's often a BAD idea to jam that "not yet chambered" round up into the chamber. Best find out WHY the rd isn't chambering, before using force. I've shot AR's southpaw for many years, with no problems from the ejected casings.
If the Olympic is a casting;you may be better off with a Bushy at the extra cost.Having never owned one of the Olympics,my own prejudice is in favor of the forgings(or in other designs-the better stampings).Forged IS a bit heavier,but my metallurgical knowledge probably is outdated. Try and find out what the durability(sustained fire and hard use-rough conditions )is on the current castings;they may have gotten better.As I recall,the powdered /sintered metal processes MAY have improved,I can't say for certain.
BTW,also check on things like extractor/spring quality,fit and finish/durability of other critical parts.If it works great....until it breaks you might have gotten your mojney's worth on a "steal of a deal".
BTW,also check on things like extractor/spring quality,fit and finish/durability of other critical parts.If it works great....until it breaks you might have gotten your mojney's worth on a "steal of a deal".
big deal, if u NEED it to always function,simply have a spare,assembled bolt-group,to include extractor, firing pin, ejector, etc, stashed in the pistol grip.
In the firing of many thousands of rds, thru half a dozen AR's,and WATCHING as many more, I've never ONCE seen the need of the bolt forward assist, nor needed it myelf. But then the sort of guys that I shot with never tried to use junk reloads, like garnad makes.
In the firing of many thousands of rds, thru half a dozen AR's,and WATCHING as many more, I've never ONCE seen the need of the bolt forward assist, nor needed it myelf. But then the sort of guys that I shot with never tried to use junk reloads, like garnad makes.
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Was this on your 1/2 day ftx's? or more then likely at a range (improvised or otherwise), and therefore not based on any real field conditions?andy said:big deal, if u NEED it to always function,simply have a spare,assembled bolt-group,to include extractor, firing pin, ejector, etc, stashed in the pistol grip.
In the firing of many thousands of rds, thru half a dozen AR's,and WATCHING as many more, I've never ONCE seen the need of the bolt forward assist, nor needed it myelf. But then the sort of guys that I shot with never tried to use junk reloads, like garnad makes.
Behavior of a weapon at a range is not necessarily an indication of how it will do in the field under realistic conditions...
:devil:
only the LOWER is cast, and it carries such a light burden of wear or recoil that .50 BMG upper manufacturers deem the AR lower of sustaining THAT sort of stress. So 223 shooting aint going to stress it at all
With any gun that you depend upon, and/or shoot a lot, best have TWO. One to practice with, one "spare", for "duty" use, and as another to shoot with if the first one breaks. Spare parts that are likely to break, springs that weaken, or little pcs that tend to fly away and get lost while working on the gun, should of course be kept, and skill at fixing or at least knowledge about how to repair parts should be acquired.
With any gun that you depend upon, and/or shoot a lot, best have TWO. One to practice with, one "spare", for "duty" use, and as another to shoot with if the first one breaks. Spare parts that are likely to break, springs that weaken, or little pcs that tend to fly away and get lost while working on the gun, should of course be kept, and skill at fixing or at least knowledge about how to repair parts should be acquired.
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My Colt SP-1's are the .223's I treasure, but If I was going to buy a .223 today in Military configuration, it would be the Armalite M-15. Light, fast handling, and very accurate and reliable. I shot my son's yesterday. 3/4 inch groups with Eagle Arms ammunition. Pretty ho-hum stuff, for ammunition, so the gun is doing it's job.
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I would purely LOVE to see you fit a AR-15, M-16 bolt in the "pistol grip". You get funnier and funnier!andy said:big deal, if u NEED it to always function,simply have a spare,assembled bolt-group,to include extractor, firing pin, ejector, etc, stashed in the pistol grip.
In the firing of many thousands of rds, thru half a dozen AR's,and WATCHING as many more, I've never ONCE seen the need of the bolt forward assist, nor needed it myelf. But then the sort of guys that I shot with never tried to use junk reloads, like garnad makes.
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