[andy]

is a joke. They show a guy shooting an apple with a .22 pistol, about 2 ft from the muzzle, and the apple FRAGS. the ONLY reason that would be the result is that the bullet is TUMBLING, from having hit a baffle inside of the can. yes, the bullet normally will split the apple a bit, make it jump a LITTLE bit, but it will NOT "explode" it, particularly if it is a subsonic load. Subsonic speeds do NOT expand lhp bullets, particularly ones with TINY nose cavities.

The video also shows a guy, firing SEVERAL bursts from a silenced Sten smg, at a can on a hillside, about 40 ft away. Never DOES hit the can. The Sten cycles at 10 shots a second. So 3 separate bursts means 2 seconds elapsed time. Piece of cake to raise a pistol and HIT the can in 2 seconds.

 

[andy]

no such THING as "huge" cavity in a .22

(that will still feed in an autoloader, anyway. Hell a WADCUTTER sized hole in a.22 is STILL tiny.

 

[andy]

<font color=red>[**censored**]</font> no they weren't. They were using

GROMMETS as baffles, and mounting the can with one of those bs "slit" threaded adapters, supposedly "fitting" the barrel of a Ruger .22 pistol. No solidarity, no alignment, nothing, really.

The hole thru my screenwire donuts is either .235" or .250",depending upon your ability to keep things straight. The book shows you how to make a brass piloted tap drill, for counterboring the gun's muzzle, for tapping the barrel for an internal thread. A lathe is used to machine and thread the male stud that projects out of the rear of the can, as well as bore the hole thru same, all the while never moving the can from the lathe'schuck. So it STAYS in alignment with the threads on the stud. An "empty thread" groove is machined into the theads, and the rear of the can is machined to a true 90 degree angle to the sides of the can, so that when it is screwed up against the muzzle of the barrel,it IS straight. The straightness and roundness of the tubing is CHECKED in the lathe, BEFORE makingthe can, and AFTER welding the rear endplug into the tubing. The machining GUARANTEES alignment, and the can's thin tubing, the "soft" screenwirebaffles, let you FIX an out of line can, with a tap or two of a mallet.

I've had to do this about 5x,in making 100 of the .22 cans. The weld heat apparently warped the tubing enough to cause the problem. HOwever, by using the internal snapring and washer as a front endcap, and carefully firing the first test round down into a board (front of can in contact with the board) and carefully raising the can, looking at the bullet hole in the wood, CHECKING that neither grey lead marks show on the washer, nor that the snaprign or washer have been knocked askew by a bullet hit, looking thru the bore, etc,such problems are EASILY fixed.

Running a 1/4" drill rod into the "tunnel" in the baffles , and "wallow"-reaming them can often shove back into place any disturbed screenwire, too, after you fix the alignment problem. See,dummy, I'm for REAL, and anybody who reads my book can tell that, instantly. You are once again running your mouth about that which you know nothing.