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without a lathe or a means of welding. Metal is of course much more satisfactory as a material for can making. Steel's ok for .22 cans, but when you get into big calibers, especially rifle stuff, the steel cans get awful heavy, and that wt can ruin the fast handling capabilities of some guns, notably the CAR-15. It can also prevent the action from working, on pistolswith the Browning tilting barrel action, which is nearly all the pistols that are worth a crap. Such pistol's cans can't weigh more than 5 ozs,or they wont let the barrel tilt, which means that the slide can't cycle.

There's some ridiculous clunker "invention" that goes into the back of a can to overcome that problem, supposedly, but the real answer is to make such cans much lighter and more compact. What's the POINT of an 8" long, 1.6" OD, 12 oz can on an 8.6" long, 40 oz 1911? Ferchrissakes, you can have a CARBINE that's as "handy" as THAT pos. If you want to "can" a .45 pistol, you start with a 6.7" long compact version of the 1911, and you use my 5.5" long, sleeved and underchambered, 5 oz, all aluminum can for it. Then you can BARELY shoulder holster the damned thing, and still have a reasonablly quick draw,if you make the rig yourself, and know how to employ it. It's no longer than a 6" barreled N frame revolver, which many CLAIM is "ccw-able". It is, under a parka. :)

Actually, if you use Kydex plastic for the rig, tie down the "off side", and the rig to a padded thigh strap, you CAN conceal a canned 1911 under a loose cordoroy shirt. If you fake the buttons and use Velcro tabs under them, a fairly fast draw can be had with such a set up, too. As fast as shoulder rigs go, that is. Say, 1.5 secs to react, draw, hit chest at 10 ft.
 
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