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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Now, just about any DA revolver can be tuned to have a great trigger.
Sure you can pay lots of money to "tune" a revolver, but the thing is this is often not needed at all. Firing 500 rounds through a revolver to break it in often smooths up things nicely. Yet, if this does not work you can dry fire the revolver another thousand or so times to get the desired effect, that is if all you want is smooth and a somewhat easier than new trigger pull. Another method you can try that reportedly speeds up this process is to dry fire the revolver after filling the works with whitening tooth paste ( not the type that whitens with peroxide of other chemicals but the type that uses a mild abrasive). Clean it very well once done with this method.
 

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Yeah, you're right.
That's why I mentioned that all I did to my Rugers was deburr and polish, and left the springs and everything else the way it came. The triggers are slick as glass, although still measure a respectable pull weight.

However, most people would rather have a light trigger, than an ultra-smooth heavy one, and that requires more than just a polish job. I don't know about anywhere else, but the gunsmith at the shop I frequent charges $50 for a good revolver trigger job. Not quite "lots of money".

But if you don't want to spend the money to have someone do it, and don't want to disassemble the thing and polish it yourself, then yeah, throw in some snap caps and pull the trigger 1,000 times, and you'll have a much better trigger.
 

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I put a set of Pachmayers on my M66 then went out and fired 24,000 plus rds through it. I'm very happy with the trigger.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
223 Fan,

Well having a Single Action Auto pistols is fine and dandy if that is what you want, but someone asked about revolvers. If someone wants a revolver and wants to get the trigger play to be a bit smoother my guess is you know how to help, so why not add your knowledge on the subject at hand instead of changing to an auto pistol?
All the best,
Glenn B
 

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On both of my L-frame Smiths (586 and 681) I put Wolff spring kits in them, and it made a substantial difference.

Back when I first got into revolver competition, some of the guys would take the sideplate off a S&W K or N frame (pre-L-frame days), pack in some plain white toothpaste with the lockworks, and put the sideplate back on. Then they'd shoot it a while (500-600 rounds), then clean out & replace the toothpaste, and do it a second time. Some of those guys' guns were just glass-smooth after the toothpaste had worked in & around the works, basically a sticky, micro-fine sanding compound.

(Obviously, afterwards, they'd remove the toothpaste and clean out the works. Figured I'd better add that... :cool: )
 

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because I know for a fact that a revolver NEVER

gets better for repeat hits than is a good SA auto, and I wanted to point that out, saving somebody a lot of wasted time and money. If it aint about getting fast repeat hits, you can just cock the hammer, ya know. Jerry Miculek gets PAID to do nothing but shoot, gets his guns and ammo FREE, and STILL can't get his splits as fast as guys do, in their spare time, with 1911's. :) You can put a lot of chrome on a 56 Chevy, but that doesn't make it a funny car, much less a rail. :)
 

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(deleted as nothing but derogatory...)
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
So ok, a semi auto SA may be faster and smoother, so what? The discussion was about revolvers and trigger/action jobs for them. I don't mind you talking about the SA pistols, don't get me wrong, but I still have to say so what. Some people like to shoot revolvers, for self defense, for hunting, and for competition. Those in competition might be especially interested in a smooter trigger play. You cannot use a SA Auto in a strictlyb revolver competion, can you?
 
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