[J. David]

Hi Gang;
Got a query for everyone. My friend owns the Ruger 77/22 Hornet, that 'naturally' I sold to him. Hell, how was I to know it was a piece of crap ? Anyway, after two years of searching for a load, he's gotten to the point where he can actually "usually" shoot about less than a four inch group at a hundred yards on command. Neat, huh? If it were mine, I'd unload that baby at the next gun show I could find--- or ship it back to Ruger and tell them to eat it.
But, he's a nice guy, not like me. Well, today, he got stupid and brought it out to shoot again, for another exercise in frustration. The idiot ! He actually bought a Wallyworld el cheapo NEW scope to put on it. What a dope ! Then the dumb idiot puts the target all the way down at a hundred yards, and actually expects to hit the cardboard, let alone the target. Well, since he didn't ask me, I didn't say anything. He didn't hit the backboard, as expected by me. Oh well, crap happens. He was even using one of my LARGE 1,000 yd targets , with the black covering the WHOLE target frame. haha, what a dupe.
Well, he finally got wise, and brought the rifle back to the fifty yard line, where he 'might' have a chance to hit the target frame--- at least. He actually , finally, sorta, hit the target frame at the 50 yd line. Real low, and adjusted it to hit to point of aim. During this process, he noticed that he forgot to put the removeable magazine in the rifle for the last few shots. The last few shots were actually touching . Amazing--- especially since it was him. Suppose the magazine was doing something to the harmonics of the barreled action?
Anyway, my question is to those that are familiar with the Ruger 77/22 Hornet. Has anyone ever experienced this with the Hornet bolt action Ruger? Also, due to the two piece bolt, which is a piece of crap, what are you using for bushing material for the "quick" fix for the slop in between the two pieces of the bolt?
We are using brass, but the damn stuff wears too quick, and I don't have any great way to make 'washers' out of real thin metal. Back when I was doing some work in too & die, one of the guys I worked with, had a homemade neato "washer making machine." Consisted with a couple pieces of lexan, and a couple of punches and dies--- or something to that effect. It has been so long, that I forget . If anyone out there has any ideas for a "washer making machine", please let me know. I need to make washers out of .002-.010 stainless and cold rolled stock.
Onquiring minds want to know?

 

[Guest]

can u just thin down, otherwise alter

some existing, steel washers in a lathe? Mount them on a bolt, lock them one with a nut and lockwasher, clamp the theaded shaft in the chuck, bring tailstock live center up to a centerdrilled hole in the bolt head. Use high rpm, sharp cutter, light cuts, and the washer will not just rotate on the bolt,if it's a fairly fit on the bolt shaft in the first place. To thin a washer, surface grinder would be best, but if held from the inside of the hole, in a lathe, it could be done, I suppose. Even a vertical mill could do the job. Tnen perhaps harden it with a torch and Casenite compound, from Brownell's Supply (or welding supply store)

 

[ASPHALT COWBOY]

RUGER 22 HORNET PROBLEM

KINDA LATE FINDING THIS THREAD, BUT HERE GOES.
FIRST OFF NEVER HAD SUCH TROUBLE WITH MY 77/22H, SHOOTS 1/4 MOA AT 100.
AS FOR MAKEING SHIMS, BROWNELL'S CARRIES SHIM STOCK IN A VARIATY OF THICKNESSES.
CLAMP SHIM STK BETWEEN TWO PIECES OF DIE PLATE THEN DRILL SIZE HOLE NEEDED, TRIM AROUND HOLE (OVERSIZED) THEN CENTER ON STEEL DOWL PIN AND SOLDER INTO PLACE, CHUCK IN DRILL PRESS AND FILE TO PROPER OUTSIDE DIAMITER. ROMOVE WITH HEAT AND WIPE CLEAN WITH STEEL WOOL WHILE STILL "HOT*".

 

[Guest]

could poke a hole in shim stock,

use a kids' compass, or a vernier, to lay out a circle around the hole, hacksaw it out, and carefully use a grinder, file, etc, to shape the thing to correct size. Maybe even cut with scissors, depending upon thickness, toughness of shim stock.