Any hand can be trained to any grip
at varioius times in my career I have considered the SA revolver, DA Smith revolver, Woodsman, M39 Smith, P35 Browning, 1911 to all have the "perfect" grip. What matters is how fast you can get the gun out and firing, how fast you can hit, how fast you can get repeat hits, and how hard you can hit. Factory 380 ammo doesnt' hit ENOUGH harder than a 22 to matter any. Head shots are still required in order to have any realistic expectation of stopping a serious attack. In fact, a Stinger from a .22 Rifle hits every bit as "hard" (160 ft lbs) as does the short barreled 380, with factory ammo. 85 grs at 850 fps is typical "performance, when you really CHECK it, on the chronograph. That's a pathetic 140 ft lbs., and probably no real expansion in flesh, once the hollow cavity is "plugged" by clothing debris.
Nothing says that whatever auto pistol you buy has to be the only one you EVER own, ya know. Get a .22, a $100 electronic shooting timer, make yourself a good Kydex rig, and get some real ABILITY with a handgun. until you can do something with a .22, there's no point in popping a centerfire cap (except on primer only wax ammo) Work at it until you can toss up a pair of soda can's, make a concealed belt draw, and hit both in midair. The cheapest centerfire ammo that's worth a hoot (9mm luger) is 10c per shot more than the 2c per shot 22 ammo. 6x as much shooting, for the same cost, means real skill, real fast. If you have the money, I suggest an alloy compact 1911, in 9mm, with a .22 conversion unit. Wax ammo, however, works far better in .45. .45 ammo costs a lot more than does 9mm ammo, and it beats up the gun more, too. A $200 lide group and ejector turn a $500 alloy commander into a .45 Commander, you know. I recommend a used, "fully loaded" Spld Armory model. That means it's already got all the smithing modifications done.