silent 22 caliber ammo
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I think Aguila ammo makes a .22 that has no powder in it. It is only the primer that propels the bullet out of the barrel.
I think it would be rather quiet, but it would also not have much power to do much, I would suspect.
Back in my younger days I used to pull the projectile and powder out of .22 rimfires and fill the case with wax. Used to be great for shooting down wasp nests in the eaves of the house without damaging anything.
I think it would be rather quiet, but it would also not have much power to do much, I would suspect.
Back in my younger days I used to pull the projectile and powder out of .22 rimfires and fill the case with wax. Used to be great for shooting down wasp nests in the eaves of the house without damaging anything.
Yup, it's Aguila. The thing to remeber about it is to NEVER shoot it out of a rifle. You wouldn't believe how many people have tried and didn't realize they had just jammed 7 projectiles in the barrel. Some only discovered this when they attempted to fire a regular .22 long rifle round and exploded their barrels.
Whacky me, I've fired Aguila's Colibri rnds out of several rifles up to 24" bbls w/o problems!
`Course I DID have to disassemble the first rifle to check the bbl due to the _very_ astounding lack of report after the first shot! Clear bbl. Many rnds fired since, heck, I've got what's left of a case... Revolvers, pump rifles and bolt rifles are included in the go to go list, for me. Ruger 10/22, no of course not... No blow back to cycle with. I have manually cycled the bolt for good results. Love `um.
anodes.
fwiw, have yet to try the 'Super Colibris' for an extra ~300fps...
`Course I DID have to disassemble the first rifle to check the bbl due to the _very_ astounding lack of report after the first shot! Clear bbl. Many rnds fired since, heck, I've got what's left of a case... Revolvers, pump rifles and bolt rifles are included in the go to go list, for me. Ruger 10/22, no of course not... No blow back to cycle with. I have manually cycled the bolt for good results. Love `um.anodes.
fwiw, have yet to try the 'Super Colibris' for an extra ~300fps...
I did a little more checking into it. If your barrel is clean and you KEEP it clean, yea, you should have no problems shooting 40 or 50 rounds. Then you should expect to start seeing problems.anodes said:Whacky me, I've fired Aguila's Colibri rnds out of several rifles up to 24" bbls w/o problems!
anodes.
It's been funny watching people come to the shows asking my father and other gunsmiths to try to remove 6 or 7 of those slugs from barrels. Most of them look at them like they are crazy and tell them to go buy another barrel, it's way to much work and not worth what it would cost them.
I have shot them through a 10/22 and a little bolt action Henry JR with no troubles at all. They are the dirtiest rounds ever though and I would urge to clean a lot when using them. The fps on those is about 350 so I would say they have a small edge over a pellet but aren't good for more then maybe 30 feet. After that they fall like a brick! Nice rounds and can bring down anything rabbit size or smaller provided you have a fairly well placed shot. I've shot pigon with those and had them fly off laughing though so there is a lot of focus on well placed.
As for the sound, when shot through a 10/22 the click of the hammer makes more noise then the round.
Rich, I have the hypers too and sadly I have one small .22 auto that will only fired those. Even with stingers I have troubles, I may just go get the gun worked a little bit but I have yet to get a stove pipe with those hypers so I don't know.
As for the sound, when shot through a 10/22 the click of the hammer makes more noise then the round.
Rich, I have the hypers too and sadly I have one small .22 auto that will only fired those. Even with stingers I have troubles, I may just go get the gun worked a little bit but I have yet to get a stove pipe with those hypers so I don't know.
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Amazon.com sells a good book, on
how to make a REAL silencer, for a .22. It incorporates how to make a brass pilot on the nose of the tap drill, so you don't have to remove the barrel, in order to counterbore it, and internally thread it. the male thread projects out of the rear of the can. An internal snapring and a washer, of the right size for the tubing used for making the can, constitute the front "endcap". very quick and easy, and very efficient for the job, too.
The baffles are "donuts" made of screenwire, cut into rectangles, folded into thirds (lengthwise) and spindled around a rod. The book shows you how to make a 5 part "die set", which is used to make 2 different sizes of baffle, using a mallet to "form" the screenwire into the proper shape. I made and sold over 100 such cans, at from $100 to $300 each, Once you properly set up (which can be done in the back of a van) you can make and mount one such can per hour. If shtf, having an 'eggbeater" handdrill, such a drill bit, tap and tapholder, and such cans, already made and cached, could provide you with a lot of PRICELESS barter material.
how to make a REAL silencer, for a .22. It incorporates how to make a brass pilot on the nose of the tap drill, so you don't have to remove the barrel, in order to counterbore it, and internally thread it. the male thread projects out of the rear of the can. An internal snapring and a washer, of the right size for the tubing used for making the can, constitute the front "endcap". very quick and easy, and very efficient for the job, too.
The baffles are "donuts" made of screenwire, cut into rectangles, folded into thirds (lengthwise) and spindled around a rod. The book shows you how to make a 5 part "die set", which is used to make 2 different sizes of baffle, using a mallet to "form" the screenwire into the proper shape. I made and sold over 100 such cans, at from $100 to $300 each, Once you properly set up (which can be done in the back of a van) you can make and mount one such can per hour. If shtf, having an 'eggbeater" handdrill, such a drill bit, tap and tapholder, and such cans, already made and cached, could provide you with a lot of PRICELESS barter material.
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Unjamming low-velocity .22 ammo
Only a licensed gunsmith should attempt the following, and then only if that gunsmith will accept any and all liability.
-----------------------
If you are intentionally using low velocity ammunition, you can safeguard against multiple jammed rounds in the barrel by doing the following:
On a gun with a known cleared barrel.
Take a coat hanger and straighten it out.
With a spent cartridge in the breach, slide the coat hanger in from the muzzle until it bottoms out on the cartridge.
Bend the coat hanger at 90 degrees and flush with the end of the muzzle.
* you can dress it up any way you want, but don't mess with the bend
Remove the coat hanger and keep it with your low velocity ammunition.
When you fire a round of low velocity ammo and you don't see where it hits :wavey: :
1 - Open the breach
2 - Slide the coat hanger in through the muzzle
3 - If the coat hanger stops short of the bend, you have a jam.
Carefully remove the bullet from a high-velocity .22 cartridge and cap the cartridge with a small bit of wax.
Put this "blank" cartridge in the breach.
Aim the weapon in a safe direction and shoot the bullet out of the barrel.
Open the breach
Use the coat hanger to verify the barrel is clear
If the barrel is clear, fire a metal jacketed bullet to help clear any smeared lead. Or better yet, clean your gun.
If NOT clear, use other methods to remove the jammed bullet.
:rofl: The reasons for using a coat hanger:
You can use it in low or no light; when the bend bottoms on the muzzle.
* such as at an indoor shooting range (targets lit, shooting station dim)
The sections of a cleaning ramrod are difficult to mark and see clearly.
* the solvents wash markings away
* you might mount a locking sleeve onto a ramrod without the cleaning end to function as the coat hanger; this way when the cleaning end is put on there will be enough extra travel to clean the bore without bottoming out on the added sleeve.
On the off chance multiple rounds were fired and jammed, the gas between bullets won't push a bullet out into your eye if you were to look down the barrel when it came loose; unlikely, but possible.
An irregularly shapped bullet won't likely let the coat hanger pass, but enough light might get by to fool you when looking through the muzzle.
Only a licensed gunsmith should attempt the following, and then only if that gunsmith will accept any and all liability.
-----------------------
If you are intentionally using low velocity ammunition, you can safeguard against multiple jammed rounds in the barrel by doing the following:
On a gun with a known cleared barrel.
Take a coat hanger and straighten it out.
With a spent cartridge in the breach, slide the coat hanger in from the muzzle until it bottoms out on the cartridge.
Bend the coat hanger at 90 degrees and flush with the end of the muzzle.
* you can dress it up any way you want, but don't mess with the bend
Remove the coat hanger and keep it with your low velocity ammunition.
When you fire a round of low velocity ammo and you don't see where it hits :wavey: :
1 - Open the breach
2 - Slide the coat hanger in through the muzzle
3 - If the coat hanger stops short of the bend, you have a jam.
Carefully remove the bullet from a high-velocity .22 cartridge and cap the cartridge with a small bit of wax.
Put this "blank" cartridge in the breach.
Aim the weapon in a safe direction and shoot the bullet out of the barrel.
Open the breach
Use the coat hanger to verify the barrel is clear
If the barrel is clear, fire a metal jacketed bullet to help clear any smeared lead. Or better yet, clean your gun.
If NOT clear, use other methods to remove the jammed bullet.
:rofl: The reasons for using a coat hanger:
You can use it in low or no light; when the bend bottoms on the muzzle.
* such as at an indoor shooting range (targets lit, shooting station dim)
The sections of a cleaning ramrod are difficult to mark and see clearly.
* the solvents wash markings away
* you might mount a locking sleeve onto a ramrod without the cleaning end to function as the coat hanger; this way when the cleaning end is put on there will be enough extra travel to clean the bore without bottoming out on the added sleeve.
On the off chance multiple rounds were fired and jammed, the gas between bullets won't push a bullet out into your eye if you were to look down the barrel when it came loose; unlikely, but possible.
An irregularly shapped bullet won't likely let the coat hanger pass, but enough light might get by to fool you when looking through the muzzle.
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Unjamming low-velocity .22 ammo
Thanks for the heads up, I got some of that, it is only quiet in rifles anyway. After reading this I am throwing it out.
Thanks for the heads up, I got some of that, it is only quiet in rifles anyway. After reading this I am throwing it out.
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334 Posts
I at times get tempted to experiment, but for now thought I would bore yall with this.
I was down the west side of Utah Lake shooting one day when a little Honda come up the hill about 200 yards away. They opened the hatch and turned on the boom boom stereo and started shooting what appeared to be small 9mms or so.
I could not hear the guns.
I was down the west side of Utah Lake shooting one day when a little Honda come up the hill about 200 yards away. They opened the hatch and turned on the boom boom stereo and started shooting what appeared to be small 9mms or so.
I could not hear the guns.
The "silent" ammo is aguila colibri. The next step up is super colibri. Super colibri WILL function out of a rifle. Also, it will function a Walther P-22. (pretty cool)
Rich Z.,
The Aguila hyper velocity only seems to have about a 6 month shelf life. If you shoot it when it's fresh, no problems. It's dirty as hell, though, and dumps lots of burnt powder in your gun.
Rich Z.,
The Aguila hyper velocity only seems to have about a 6 month shelf life. If you shoot it when it's fresh, no problems. It's dirty as hell, though, and dumps lots of burnt powder in your gun.
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