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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
it;s just a question of deepening the .008" wide cut made from the nose towards the bullet's base and it will break apart at impact, even at quite low velocities. but then it's not AP and you have to make it out of soft lead, instead of solid copper rod, which is used for the 2000+ fps loads.

get the little Exacto hobby saw if y ou want to make your own split nose hp's for evaluation. you dont need real ammo accuracy for mere bullet effect/testing. If you want accuracy, you need a jig for holding the bullets and a slitting saw/cutter for said mill. then the cut will be precise and the accuracy of the ammo will be sub 6" at 25 yds, plenty good enough. I don't care if all I get is 6" at 10 yds, from a pocket 9mm. if that's what it takes to get real stopping effect with such a gun, so be it. but what I've seen, bullets made with my 6" atlas lathe and Cummins mini-mill, CO, 2005, is typically 4" at 25 yds, with Pat's Officer's length spld .45 and my LW commander 9mm.

the bullets, to attain 2000+ fps, MUST have huge, deep conical hollowbase cavities. that lightens the bullet, seals back the powder gases, reduces friction in the barrel and makes room for more powder. it also makes the bullets "nose heavy", which helps accuracy. Only Alliant Bullseye powder suffices to get such velocities. and you need about 2x as much of it as is a max load with normal weight bullets, or you won't even cycle the slide. work up such loads 1/2 gr at a time, firing without a magazine and firing remotely, not holding the gun. keep miking the cases OD at the web and watch for gas leakage or brass damage from extractor or ejector.
 
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