why bother with 357 Snubbie? aint

Lets just say that a person can effectively hit a target with his or her 357 snub. Why would they want a 9mm or any other gun that they are not perficient with? Use what WORKS FOR YOU!! One hit from a 357 snub is better than no hits from a lw commander 1911. See my point?

Nick

it's EASY to take anyone to a higher level

of skill than the sort who "think" a 357 snub is worth a hoot. The snubby is VERY hard to hit with, at speed. I aint TALKING about plinking. Tin cans don't care if "all" you hit them with is a .22, so why spend 7x as much for .38 ammo, 20x as much for 357 ammo, hmm? The 9mm is safer around the house, because it can have the chamber empty, and the mag loaded, making it impossible for little kids to cycle the slide. The little buggers CAN, however, contrive ways to cock the hammer on a revolver. I can cycle the slide every bit as fast as I can pick it up and train it on a target. I've practiced doing so for decades now,cause I like to dryfire with the chamber empty. You have to either have 6 seconds in which to speedload it, or keep another revolver loaded someplace.

beginners can't HOPE to use 357 snub

worth a hoot. Many a longtime pro can't do so. So they cheat and use 38 wadcutter in it,with about HALF the effectiveness of good 9mm ammo (from a $150 Star BM, for instance) The BM is a lot easier to ccw than any 357 Snub, is, and it's about 1/3rd the price of retail for the snubby, or half the price of a used one. Revolvers get their cranes, cylinder pins, barrels bent, and they fairly quickly wear out of time, even with just dryfire.

I'm not one to try and talk someone out of what they are committed to but a good modern semiauto does everything that matters better than a .357 snub. Reliability long term over mucho speed shooting, shootablility (ease of hitting), capacity, reloading, packing. I think the wound ballistics pro's have pretty much buried old .357 bolt of lightning myths. But, for most bad situations, it "should" get someone by. After nearly having to use a Ruger SP101 for real, its horrible limitations were a cold slap in the face during my own After Action Report process. I'll make whatever sacrifice to carry a "hard use" semi-auto. Always a G19 or 1911 now.

90% of the time, a.22lr will "get you by"

because IF you get the gun out and ON the attacker, soon enough, he doesn't MAKE you shoot him, 90+% of the time. Also, about half of the time, ANY solid chest hit, even with a .22, makes them stop. With REAL skill with the .22, and REAL determination (ie, head shots) you can thus MAKE the .22 suffice, 95+5 of the time. So of COURSE the 357 will "usually get you by". You'll never have to hit anyone, or indeed even fire it, most of the time. 51% is "most of the time.

yeah that's what I meant too about "getting by". I don't want to get by but to dominate. So for me it's a 1911 or Glock format which I have found to be the fastest for hitting high chest or head targets, repeatedly or on multiples, or moving, etc.

I think many others SA would do nicely but I am a bit nuerotic about short trigger resets so I had to part ways with BHP's and concentrate of 1911's and Glocks. Have heard Smith autos have very short resets too but I don't like their high bore axis.

Steyr semi is supposed to be phenom but it hasn't been around long enough in hard use for my tastes.

Andy - will get back to you soon about question concerning SP101. The email program locked up on me the other day.

I bought a couple Steyrs in .357 Sig and .40S&W. Nice handling guns. The sights aren't much for target shooting, but are very quick to line up for body shaped targets.

How come the European gun manufacturers treat making guns in .45 ACP like having a root canal done?

P35 CAN have a short reset, man.

remove the trigger, looking where it overhangs in front of its pivot point. drill and tap the frame there, for a setscrew, from on top of frame. Run an allen head set screw up into the frame, from inside the trigger guard, to serve as an overtravel screw. You can buy oversized sear bars, I understand, from Cyliinder and Slide Shop, in Nebraska. I always just welded up the existing one, to get rid of most of the "takeup" in the P35's trigger.

My problem with the P35 is that it's 9mm, and double stack. No fixing either problem. It's not pocketable, it's pretty heavy, and it's not 460 rowland.

Melvin, I always considered a .38 snubbie as the ideal sleeping bag gun. An actual example can be found at the Chosen Reservoir during the Korean War a number of Marines were able to fight their way out of their sleeping bags with their .45's they slept with when the Chinese attacked.

I pocket carry a S&W 442 just about everywhere.

If ole Melvin can't shoot a firearms because it's too noisy or recoils too much be it shotgun, rifle, or handgun, he prefaces his statement with "Why bother.....". What he's really saying is HE can't shoot it for the above reasons.

he's going to popped by some dumb kid with a Lorcin, when he least expects it and is going to lie there wondering how it is possible to be killed by something that isn't his wonder gun/ load combination.

Garand said:

Melvin, I always considered a .38 snubbie as the ideal sleeping bag gun. An actual example can be found at the Chosen Reservoir during the Korean War a number of Marines were able to fight their way out of their sleeping bags with their .45's they slept with when the Chinese attacked.

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Gotta call BS on this. I have it on good authority that .45acp hardball is inadequate even for housecats and woodchucks. No way it ever worked on an enemy soldier.

John in AR said:

Gotta call BS on this. I have it on good authority that .45acp hardball is inadequate even for housecats and woodchucks. No way it ever worked on an enemy soldier.

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:roflmao1::roflmao1::roflmao1:

Certainly not without spit nose bullets.